General information about Sugar Glider

Sugar gliders have become a popular exotic pet. They are small and relatively easy to care for, and have a cute if not unusual appearance. As with any other exotic pet, a potential owner should be aware of their care requirements and personality before acquiring a sugar glider. diets,

Natural History
Sugar Gliders are marsupials; that is their young start life off in a pouch (like a kangaroo). They originally hail from Australia, Indonesia and New Guinea, and live in forests. Their name is derived from their diet (in part they feed on nectar and the sap of eucalyptus), and from the flap of skin they have between their wrists and ankles that allows them to glide between trees. They are omnivorous, meaning they will eat plant material and meat - food in the wild include nectar, fruit, insects and even small birds or rodents. They live in social family units in the wild, a trait which makes them inclined to bond well with their human family. However, if they are deprived of social interaction they will not thrive (in fact they can become depressed to the point where they may die).

Characteristics
Sugar gliders make endearing, playful, and entertaining pets. As mentioned above they are very social, and ideally they should be kept in pairs or groups, and in any case they should have a good deal of social interaction with their owners. They are fairly clean and do not have complex housing requirements. In addition, they tend to be fairly healthy (although it may be difficult to find an experienced vet to treat them) and can live to be 12-14 years in captivity. They do need a good amount of interaction (even if it is just riding around in a pocket all day), and aren't great housetraining candidates. Their nails are sharp and will scratch if they need to dig in while climbing or landing on you (keep them well trimmed). They also have sharp teeth and though not aggressive, will bite if they feel threatened or frightened. If not acquired tame and used to being handled, it may take a great deal of time and patience to get them to the point where they are cuddly.

Diet
Sugar Gliders do have fairly strict dietary requirements. The ideal diet for sugar glider is still a widely debated topic among keepers. For some recommendedsee "Feeding Sugar Gliders" for more information on diets and the diet options that are recommended by others. A potential problem in sugar gliders is paralysis stemming from an imbalance of calcium to phosphorus in the diet (i.e. too low in calcium and/or high in phosphorus). This diesease (called nutritional osteodystrophy) can be prevented by proper diet and vitamin/mineral supplements.

Housing
As for housing, a cage of 24 by 24 inches, by 36 inches high is a good minimum size for a pair. This is a minimum, though - bigger is better and for sugar gliders the height is more valuable than floor space. The cage wire should be no more than 1/2 inch wide, and horizontal cage bars allow climbing. The interior of the cage should provide lots of interest with toys, and exercise wheel, nest box and/or glider pouch. Branches, ropes and ladders provide lots of opportunity for climbing and exercise. For more details on cages and accessories for sugar gliders, see "Housing Sugar Gliders."

Bonding
If a sugar glider is not tame when acquired, time, patience, and gentle frequent training sessions will eventually allow bonding of the glider to its owner. Gliders adore being near their owners, inside a shirt (hint wear two shirts and let the glider hang out between them, or else their claws will tickle or scratch!) or in a pocket. They will be lovely companions, who view you as an equal. Sugar gliders do not respond at all to punishment or domination, so treat them with respect, gentleness and understanding, and you will be rewarded with a devoted companion!

History of Syrian hamsters

There are many different species of hamsters but the most popular type to be kept as a pet is the Syrian or Golden hamster. Syrian hamsters belong to the Suborder of the Animal Kingdom, Myomorpha and to the Genus Mesocricetus and species Auratus, which gives them their formal scientific name of Mesocricetus Auratus.

These hamsters originated in the desert areas of Syria and Syrian hamsters were first reported as far back as the 18th century.

The first hard evidence of their existence was provided by the zoologist George Waterhouse in 1839, when from an expedition to Syria he sent a hamster skeleton and skin to the Natural History Museum in London.

Almost all Syrian hamsters kept as pets today are descended from a group of hamsters which were sent to Britain and the USA in 1930 by Professor Aharoni of the University of Jerusalem and the first hamster club was set up in England in 1945.

Appearance of Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamster, SootySyrian hamsters have a broad head with large eyes and erect ears which makes them resemble to some extent a teddy bear, hence they are also sometimes referred to as teddy bear hamsters. They have stockily built, wide bodies and their best known characteristic is their cheek pouches, in which they collect their food. These extend for some way down the side of their bodies and it can be surprising how much material they can store in them.

The front feet have only four toes and the back feet have five. Syrian hamsters grow to an average of about 5-6 inches in length excluding their short tails, which are less than an inch long. They weigh about 150 grammes (5 ounces) on average and the females are typically slightly larger than the males. There are a number of different types of Syrian hamsters that have occured through mutations or selective breeding over the years. These vary mainly in colour, patterns and types of coat.

Behaviour of Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamsters live a solitary life and will only tolerate each only when they have to, such as to mate and to help with rearing the young. Young Syrian hamsters will get along fine for the first few weeks, but when they get to about 6 weeks they will start to fight very aggressively and have to be separated. It makes no difference if they are male or female, Syrian hamsters must be kept in separate cages. Syrian hamsters mark their territory with scent from glands located on their flanks and they have very poor eye sight and rely largely on smell to recognise things.

Syrian hamsters are nocturnal creatures that sleep for most of the day curled up in a nest that they will make from whatever materials are available. They become more active at dusk and dawn when they will come out in search of food. Food that they find will mainly be placed in their cheek pouches and taken back to their bedding area where it is stored for later. Dependent on conditions Syrian hamsters may hibernate, this is likely if average temperatures fall below 10oC (50oF) and virtually never occurs in hamsters living indoors with central heating.


Syrian hamster housing and bedding

Hamster cageSyrian hamsters can be kept in traditional wired cages or aquarium type cages. Wired cages have the advantages that they have bars which the hamsters like to climb and they are well ventilated although, this can lead to a mess around these cages. Aquarium type cages can be made of plastic or glass, these are tidier in use as material cannot spill out around them, however ventilation can be a problem and they can overheat in the summer.

Hamster bedding material can be hay, paper derived products or some types of dust free wood shaving, these should be used with care as allergies can occur and they can cause breathing difficulties. Syrian hamsters usually restrict their excretions to one place in their cage and with some training they can be encouraged to use small litter trays.

Care of Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamsters are self cleaning so they don’t need to be bathed, they will look after their own coats. Their claws can sometimes become too long and Syrian hamster, Troublemay need clipping. Their cages should be cleaned out about once per week, with the toilet corner being cleaned out almost daily. As hamsters store food, usually in their bedding area, this needs inspecting frequently for rotting food, particularly uneaten fresh vegetables.

Syrian hamsters need some exercise and a large enough wheel should be provided for them, otherwise they can get back problems. Some hamsters can become a bit obsessed with the wheel so you should monitor its use and if this is happening remove it from the cage at times. Syrian hamsters are very inquisitive and some interesting objects should be placed in their cage to let them explore and play and a stump of wood, twigs from fruit trees or interestingly shaped stones can keep them amused.

Handling Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamsters are easy to tame, rarely bite and will usually learn to enjoy being handled if you go about it gently and gradually. You should not wake a Syrian hamster, Sootysleeping hamster, if possible, but approach the hamster when it is well rested, awake and alert. You should approach the hamster at its eye level, not from above, and ideally wait for it to come to your hand. You can encourage this by using small snacks as treats.

When you do start to pick the hamster up you should cup your hands carefully around it and lift it gently and avoiding squeezing it tightly. The more time you spend handling your hamste the tamer it will get. Another benefit of Syrian hamsters is that once they are tamed they will remain that way for the rest of their lives, in contrast to most dwarf hamsters where maintenance regular handling is required. Although, you probably going to want to regularly handle your hamster anyway, so it's hardly a hardship is it?

Reproduction & breeding in Syrian hamsters

Female Syrian hamsters can reproduce from as early as 5 weeks old, but this is too young and can actually harm them, it is better not to let them breed until the female is about 4 months old. They can mate roughly every 4 days and you can tell when they are receptive by stroking their back and if she raises her tail, then she can be placed with a male that night. The male and female Syrian hamsters should be introduced cautiously, on neutral territory and with the female entering the area first.

The gestation period of the Syrian hamster is about 16 days and the young are born bald and blind. A mother and her young should be interrupted as little as possible or cannibalism can occur. The young can leave the nest at about 2 weeks old and they no longer require the mother hamster from about 4 weeks old. The life expectancy of a Syrian hamster is two to three years on average.

General information about Roborovski hamsters

Roborovski hamsters are small, short tailed dwarf hamsters. They might not be perfect as family pets as they aren't the kind of hamster you can hold and stroke, instead, they are hamsters to watch as they run on their wheel (at lightning fast speed) and play with siblings (they are social, so can live in pairs). Their's original habitat is in the Mongolian steppes.

Roborovski hamsters are particularly hard to tame because of their character, size and speed. It is recommended to buy Roborovski's in pairs, mainly as watching two play together is much more fun than just one. Some may be worried about the chances of the two fighting, but it is normally the case that severe wounds only come about in groups of three Robo's in the same cage. Normally,the hamsters will only 'play' or mock fight. They prefer to be kept in a well lit room at a constant temperature (18 to 26°C, 64 to 80°F) and though they cannot see very far, Robo's are generally more relaxed when positioned somewhat above the ground (at least 65 cm (2 feet), from where they can perceive their surroundings.

Feeding

Feeding a Roborovski is no different from feeding any other kind of hamster, but there is a difference when putting your own touch outside of the Robo's regular diet. It is essential you don't feed the Robo too much fruit or vegetables at one time. Roborovski's are the only hamsters who are nearly completely vegetarian, although they are allowed some meats.



Note - It may seem like a little bit of fruit and veg to us, but to a tiny little Roborobski, it is a huge amount. This is why it is really important never to give the hamster too much fruit or veg as too much can very easily cause the Robo diarrhoea. If it unfortunaltely gets diarrhoea, some Raspberry leaves will help.
Hamster muesli

A Roboroski's main diet must consist of hamster 'muesli'. You can buy hamster muesli from a pet shop or even make your own, but this isn't recommended. A pet store bought bag of hamster muesli will consist of cereals, nuts and dried fruits. 'Premium' quality muesli will have some added banana flakes and/or brazil nuts along with some other types of nutritious cereals or nuts.

It is important you re-fill the Robo's dish every day (at roughly the same time) and clear out any food the Robo has stored in its sleeping area. If two Roborovski's are sharing the same bowl, fill it to about 2/3 full or just 1/3 for a single Robo.
Fruits

Apple (seedless)
Banana
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cantaloupe
Cherries
Cranberries
Grapes (seedless)
Lychee
Mango
Melon
Peaches (no stone)
Plums (no pits)
Raspberries
Raspberry Leaves (helpful for diarrhea)
Strawberries

Vegetables

Asparagus
Bean Sprouts
Bok Choy
Broccoli
Cabbage (Limited amounts)
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Chard
Chestnuts
Chickweed
Chicory
Clover
Corn on the Cob
Cucumbers
Dandelion Leaves
Endive
Green Beans
Kale
Parsnips
Peas
Radicchio
Romaine Lettuce
Spinach
Squash
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet bell Peppers
Swiss Chard
Turnip
Water Chestnuts
Water Cress
Zucchini

Meat and Protein foods

Cooked Ground Beef (Rinse well in hot water to remove any grease)
Cooked Chicken or Turkey (Steamed or baked)
Low Fat Cottage Cheese
Fish Cod (Cooked removing bones and skin)
Grasshoppers (Pet Shop)
Mealworms (Pet Shop)
Crickets (Pet Shop)
Bread(whole grain no white bread) soaked in milk ( Low Fat, Skim, Soy)
Eggs ( boiled or scrambled)
Plain Tofu
Plain Low Fat Yogurt
Dog Biscuits (No Garlic, onion, or onion powder)
Monkey Chow
Lab Blocks

Other foods

Buckwheat
Baby Food(low sugar and no onion or garlic)
Cheese (mild cheeses in moderation)
Cooked Plain Brown Rice
Cooked Pasta(Wheat or Spinach would be better)
Dry toast(Also helpful for diarrhea
Flax seed
Low or Sugarless Cereals
Pumpkin Seeds (unsalted)
Nuts (No almonds)
Sesame Seeds
Soybeans(Roasted no salt)
Squash seeds
Lentils
Oatmeal(dry or soaked in skim, soy or lowfat milk)
Nutritional Yeast
Bran and Wheat Germ (Refrigerated goes bad fast)
Peanuts (unsalted)
Alfafa
Unsalted Popcorn (no butter)

Foods to avoid

Almonds (Contains Cyanic Acid)
Apple Seeds
Canned food
Chocolate
Candies
Chips and Junk food
Pork Products
Potatoes (Raw)
Raw Kidney Beans
Eggplant
Fool's Parsley
Grape Seeds
Avocado (Contains Cardiac Glycosides)
Raw Rhubarb
Tomato leaves
Oranges or Tangerines(no citrus fruits)
No watermelon (the water content is high causes diarrhea)
Cherry Stone
Peach Stone & Leaves
Apricot Stone
Lemon or Lime
Jams and jellies
Spices
Garlic
Onions
Leeks
Scallions
Chives
Pickles

And any other food that has not been mentioned above this content box.

Members Area
Sign In or Register
Search
Follow & Share



Recent Forum Posts
Flying Saucer Question?
by K&M 2 hours ago
Males not females...
by RunningRobos 5 hours ago
Hamster-Sitter New York Wanted!
by A_hamster_Early_Frum_Happiness 13 hours ago
colours of robos
by Lynn 14 hours ago
More...

PROMOSI!!RM 500(sepasang) free HPW Diet untuk 3bulan.

RM 500(sepasang) free HPW Diet(untuk 3Bulan).

JUST ADD TO GET THE CAGE..

RM 29


RM 36


RM 79



RM 105


RM 152

PROMOSI Sugar Glider SAVE RM 60

RM 756/pair with 3 feet cage + HPW starter kit + sleeping pouch



Bugsy® Sleeping Pouch

Apakah itu Breed Standard?(shared)

Hari ini, Tim(truluvrabbitry.com) nak bertulis pasal breed standard. Tujuannya adalah untuk membimbing rakan2 yang baru sahaja mendapat demam panas Show Rabbit ni. I rasa tidak puas hati kerana ramai yang tidak dapat mencengkam maksud sebenar bahasa dunia Arnab hias.

Setahu kawan2 sekalian, American Rabbit Breeders Association ataupun ARBA secara singkat adalah sebuah pertubuhan yang menjalankan tugas pentadbiran bagi semua urusan berkenaan dengan arnab dan tikus belanda (guinea pig). Di Amerika Syarikat terdapat banyak kelab2 di peringkat daerah dan juga negeri adalah dibawah naugan ARBA.

Apakah tugas-tugas ARBA sebenarnya yang paling penting untuk pengiat industri arnab?

Salah satu tugas ARBA yang paling penting dalam pendapat saya adalah penerbitan, pengiktirafan dan penjagaan Standard of Perfection ataupun Breed Standard. Apakah itu Breed Standard?

Untuk menjawab soalan di atas, I ada satu soalan bagi rakan2 sekalian. Kenapa ramai yang tertarik kepada Holland Lop, Netherland Dwarf dan baka2 yang lain? Apakah disebalik Holland Lop yang membuatnya Holland Lop selain daripada ciri2 biasa yang kita nampak pada seekor arnab Holland Lop?

Jawapannya senang, untuk menjadi seekor Holland Lop yang cantik, ia mesti mempunyai semua ciri2 yang telah dibentangkan di dalam Standard Of Perfection. Standard Of Perfection adalah dokumen yang ringkas lagi tepat yang menjelaskan setiap ciri2 yang perlu ada pada seekor Holland Lop. Misalnya dokumen ini membentangkan specifikasi arnab Holland Lop seperti dokumen yang datang bersama dengan mesin basuh baju yang you beli di kedai elektrik. Misalnya panduan mesin basuh menjelaskan berapa voltan yang diperlukan dan seperti panduan mesin basuh, Standard Of Perfection adalah panduan untuk semua 47 baka yang diiktiraf ARBA buat masa ini.

Saya mendapat ramai yang bertanya mengenai kualiti arnab Holland Lop. Kerana di pasaran ramai yang mengunakan perkataan2 yang “dalam” bagi mereka yang baru2 saja mengikuti demam denggi Arnab hias. Ramai yang turut ikut mengunakan istilah2 tanpa tahu-menahu maksud sebenarnya.

Ramai yang tahu 3 istilah yang paling terkenal di Malaysia sekarang – Pet Quality, Brood Quality dan Show Quality. Adakah you salah seorang yang terperangkap dalam istilah2 ini tanpa tahu maksud sebenarnya?

Dalam Breed Standard Holland Lop, salah satu daripada ciri yang telah dibentangkan adalah KEPALA. Ia telah dijelaskan dengan tepat bagaimana rupa bentuk KEPALA Holland Lop yang sepatutnya dan macam mana ia dinilai.

Dalam Bahasa English ia berkata:

HEAD-Points 24: The head is to be massive in appearance. When viewed from the front, the head is to have good width, beginning at the front of the crown and rounding down between the eyes to an extremely short and well filled muzzle. The cheeks should be full and round. The head is to be set high and close to the shoulders. The size of the head is to be in proportion to the body. The eyes should be bold and deep set.

Faults – Pinched muzzle, flat cheeks; narrowness between the eyes. Fault severely for narrow or long head, or head too small to balance with body.

Secara singkat, untuk KEPALA Holland Lop sahaja, penilai akan memberi 24 markah. Dijelaskan di sini bahawa kepala si Holland Lop mesti nampak BESAR. Jurang antara dua mata mestilah sebesar mungkin untuk mencapai kelihatan kepala yang BESAR.

Standard of Perfection bukan sahaja menjelaskan apa yang dikehendaki malah juga ciri2 yang tidak diingini. Istilah FAULTS tidak bermaksud bahawa arnab itu kalah bertanding akan tetapi, hilang markah sahaja.

Istilah DISQUALIFIED ataupun DQ bermaksud arnab kalah bertanding terus tanpa penilaian. Ada sesetengah arnab diDQ kerana terdapat warna kuku yang tidak sepadan dengan warna arnab e.g. arnab warna solid berkuku putih.

Kenapa si Tim ni tulis pasal semua ini dan apakah perhubungannya dengan Pet, Brood dan Show Quality?

Terdapat banyak perhubungannya dan saya ingin menjelaskan supaya semua yang terkena dengan demam Arnab hias ni tidak ditipu semasa membeli arnab2 tersayang yang makin hari makin mahal digoreng harga pasarannya.

Pet Quality boleh dikatakan arnab yang tidak boleh dipamerkan ataupun yang terdapat terlalu banyak FAULTS ataupun yang telah DQ.

Brood Quality adalah arnab yang mempunyai faults tapi ada ciri2 yang boleh digunakan untuk generasi seterusnya. Brood adalah arnab pembiak yang boleh digunakan untuk mendapatkan arnab Show Quality. Lebih hampir mutu brood kepada show quality lebih baik untuk dijadikan induk.

Show Quality tidak perlu dijelaskan. Arnab2 ini mungkin ada faults tapi bila dinilai dan dipertandingkan, mungkin menang juga jika arnab lawan terdapat lebih faults nya dan hilang lebih banyak markah. Show Quality adalah arnab yang mempunyai ciri2 paling dekat dan mirip ciri2 yang dibentangkan di dalam panduan baka ataupun Breed Standards.

Saya berharap dengan menulis karangan yang panjang lebar ini dapat mendorong mereka yang demam panas supaya suhunya turun sedikit kalau tidak, suhu akan mencecah 100 darjah celsius pabila mengetahui sudah ditipu si penjual arnab yang semuanya Show Quality.

Stok are available ! The Complete Nutrition .

Complete pellet ration specifically designed for the adult, less active or overweight animal that requires higher fiber and less protein to help reduce or maintain weight. Also helps reduce digestive tract problems by helping the gut become more active. Great tasting small pellet for ease of eating. Yucca added to reduce cage odors. Feed to Rabbits and Prairie Dogs. See Timmy Guinea Pig & Chinchilla for specific pellet rations for those animals. See American Pet Diner hay to be fed daily to meet your rabbit's daily fiber needs.



Complete pellet ration specifically designed for the junior, growing or breeding rabbit. Great tasting small pellet for ease of eating. Yucca added to reduce cage odors. Feed to rabbits. See Alffy Guinea Pig & Chinchilla for specific pellet rations for those animals. DON'T FORGET American Pet Diner's high quality hay should be fed daily to meet your rabbit's daily fiber needs.



This is a great high fiber hay cube for a treat or to feed when you are on the go. If you are on the go you can store this cube and feed it with less mess than having to pack loose hay, or you can use it as a treat for that special rabbit, guinea pig, chinchilla, prairie dog, or rodent of yours. This cube is about 1/2" x 1/2" in size.




"Mountain Grass Smaks" are an earthy treat your pet will enjoy. The Orchard Grass is locally grown in Eureka, Nevada- is sun cured and provides a wonderful source of fiber in the form of a pellet. Feed to your pet a few times a week. Let American Pet Diner provide you with "Timmy" or "Alfey" complete pellet ration to keep your pet healthy and happy.

Feed a few pieces several times per week for added fiber and fun! Provide American Pet Diner Timmy or Alffy Complete Pellet Ration along with hay free choice daily to keep your pet healthy and happy.




The crop of Timothy High Fiber Hay we are currently shipping is VERY coarse stemmed with lots of seed heads and mid green color. Excellent high fiber source for helping to create a healthy digestive tract for your pet. Feed to Rabbits, Chinchillas, Prairie Dogs and other hay eating pets.

1st Cut Timothy Hay.


Great tasting alfalfa hay with green leaf and stem. Feed for young, growing, breeding and extra protein needs. Feed to all hay eating pets.

14oz ALFALFA MINIBALE FOR THE SAME PRICE AS THE 10oz, THAT IS 30% MORE HAY FOR FREE!!


Great tasting timothy hay is with mostly leaf and high green color. This hay is our most popular seller! Our new crop is in so expect vibrant green in color and shorter pieces of hay! Feed for increased fiber intake. Feed to all hay eating pets.

Second Cut Timothy Hay.

BUGSY®

~ The ultimate in pet living ~

BUGSY® brings you the very best in quality and nutrition for your pets. We have taken every care to ensure that your beloved pets get the best nutrition possible.

Look for the BUGSY® logo today.

Sugar Glider accerssories are available.

Bugsy® Bonding Pouch


Bugsy® Colony Sleeping Pouch


Bugsy® Sleeping Pouch



Bugsy® Tunnel-Mock



Bugsy® Triangle Tunnel



Bugsy® Suggie Tent



Bugsy® Suggie Hammock



Nail-O-Matic
I think most would agree that the Sugar Glider's sharp little nails can be a bit rough on human skin! How many of you have had the red spots and scratches to prove it?

The Nail-O-Matic is a running track insert that files your glider's nails automatically as they run in a Wodent Wheel. The Nail-O-Matic is easy to use! Just slide it into your existing Wodent Wheel and watch your gliders have loads of fun as they Zoom 'N Groom their nails.

Another lesser known problem of sugar glider nails getting too long is the injuries they can cause. Gliders can easily get hung up on some of the products sold for sugar gliders. It is vitally important that you keep your gliders' nails well groomed not only for your own enjoyment, but for their own safety as well!

Most gliders don't like to have their nails trimmed and most humans don't like to trim glider nails. Trimming is a tricky proposition. If you go too short you risk hitting the quick and causing the glider to bleed. Also, too short nails can inhibit a glider's ability to hold on to your clothing or toys.

The Nail-O-Matic is designed with a smooth platform grid to protect little suggie pads from the abrasive surface underneath. A super fine grade abrasive material is used so that the nails are filed down slowly during use. Can only be used with the Wodent Wheel Senior.


Wodent Wheel Senior
Wodent Wheels feature a unique design with a safe more natural running surface and a support stand without dangerous pinch areas. Wodent Wheels are easily disassembled for cleaning and are constructed of tough, safe plastic with a stable base of heavy-gauge painted steel. Wodent Wheels are low cost, much safer and quieter than conventional wire exercise wheels, and have a clean, simple design using recycled and recyclable plastics. Please allow us to choose a colour for you.

11" diameter
3½" wide
2.6" entry holes
Overall height 12¼"
Recommended for lady rats, squirrels, sugar gliders, large hamsters and small hedgehogs. (Not recommended for chinchillas or gerbils.)


Wobust Wodent Wheel
Wodent Wheels feature a unique design with a safe more natural running surface and a support stand without dangerous pinch areas. Wodent Wheels are easily disassembled for cleaning and are constructed of tough, safe plastic with a stable base of heavy-gauge painted steel. Wodent Wheels are low cost, much safer and quieter than conventional wire exercise wheels, and have a clean, simple design using recycled and recyclable plastics. Please allow us to choose a colour for you.

12" diameter
5.3" wide
3" entry holes
Overall height 13"
Recommended for larger male rats and hedgehogs.

HPW Diet for Sugar Glider! Stok available Now.

Due to numerous requests for this amazing diet to be available in Malaysia, we have now imported High Protein Supplement for gliders.

To make it easier for you, we have a Bugsy® HPW® starter kit for glider lovers. Each starter kit can make one portion of Bugsy® HPW® which can lasts a glider approximately 3 to 4 months.

And we have now made it even more easier for you, especially those who have no fridge or blender at home, you can try out the Bugsy® Instant HPW® .

Now, even those from outside the Klang Valley can make their own diets!

Feedback from those on this diet has included:
- Their gliders are healthier
- The odour has been significantly reduced
- Coats have been smoother and healthier

Try it for yourself today!

Coming stok on 17/5/2011 Bugsy Health Care!

Bugsy® HPW® Starter Kit


Bugsy® Instant HPW®


Bugsy® Glider Booster 1oz
To ensure that your sugar glider is getting the vitamins and minerals they need, sprinkle Glider Booster on their food or fruit daily. Sugar gliders can be finicky eaters at times, supplementing their diet helps fill the nutritional voids. Feeding a balanced diet is a priority for good health and supplements can help. Contains probiotics that prevent colonisation of pathogenic bacteria. Breeding sugar gliders require different nutritional requirements. Glider Booster helps fill those requirements.

Ingredients:
Live Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Yeast, Corn Gluten Feed, Wheat Middlings, Malt Syrup And Corn Sugar Molasses And Dried In Such A Manner As To Preserve Fermenting Activity: Soybean Meal, Dicalcium And Monocalcium Phosphates, Vitamin A Palmitate, D-Activate Plant Sterol, (Source Of Vitamin D2), Vitamin E Supplement, Choline Chloride, Niacin, Riboflavin, Pantothenic Acid, Thiamine, Pyridoxine, Folic Acid, Vitamin B-12 Supplement, Sodium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Potassium Chloride, Ferrous Sulfate, Ethylene Diamine Dihydroioide, Colbolt Carbonate, Maganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate.

Minerals:
Phosphorus (P) Not Less Than 1.45%
Calcium (Ca) Not Less Than 1.50%
Calcium (Ca) Not More Than 2.50%
Iodine (I) 0.40%
Salt(Nac1) 0.00%
Ash Not More Than 15%
Added Mineral Not More Than 10.50%




Bugsy® Pure Acacia Gum 1oz
Sugar gliders feed on the sap from acacia trees in the wild. Acacia gum is a very important carbohydrate source, and gliders are able to digest about 90% of the gum. Gliders spent about half their time in the wild(43%) feeding on gum. Pure Acacia Gum is harvested from the sap of these Acacia trees, processed into a powder form and packaged to be fed as part of a balanced diet. Consider the fact that sugar gliders in the wild do not receive most of their energy from simple sugars (nectar), but rather from starch-like, complex carbohydrates, such as acacia gum and other sources. Therefore, the name "sugar glider" may be a somewhat of a misnomer, as "complex carbohydrate glider" might be more appropriate! Powder form, sprinkle on fresh fruits or mix with water to form gum, then offer in a small dish.

Coming stok on 17/5/2011 Bugsy Food & Treats!

Bugsy® Premium Sugar Glider Diet 200g
This balanced, highly nutritional and diversified Sugar glider food was developed with the help of animal nutritionalists and veterinarians. Contains a higher protein level (40.18%) then any other commercially marketed glider food. Bugsy™ Premium Sugar Glider diet, also has a multitude of healthy and diverse ingredients such as apple, blueberry, raspberry, honey, Pure Bee pollen, along with eucalyptus. No added preservatives or colours.

PREMIUM DIET CHECKLIST
• 40.18% Protein .... Higher than all other Glider Diets on the market
• A diet approved by Glider Breeders and Veterinarians nation wide.
• Nutritionally complete for Joey age to adult Sugar gliders.
• Consistent nutritional value throughout every food pellet.
• No added colours, flavours or preservatives.

Some of the diversified ingredients in Premium Sugar Glider Diet.

Apples, Blueberries, Honey, Bee pollen, Raspberries, Broccoli, Beet pulp

Ingredients:
Soybean Meal, Apple, Beet Pulp, Blood Meal, Ground Roasted Soybeans, Blueberries, Broccoli, Honey, Raspberries, Bee Pollen, Cane Molasses, Corn Gulten Meal, Calcium Carbonate, Mono Di-Calcium Phosphate, Salt, Eucalyptus, Yeast Culture, L. Acidophilus, S. Faecium, S. Cerevisiae, Choline Chloride, Vitamin E Supplement, Copper Sulfate, Zinc Proteinate, Manganese Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Colbolt Proteinate, Thiamine Monoitrate, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D-3 Supplement, Vitamin C Supplement, Zinc Oxide, Biotin, Folic Acid, Niacin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hcl, Dehy Alfalfa Meal, Pantothenic Acid, Riboflavin Supplement, Vitamin B-12 Supplement.

Information about the Vitamins & Minerals in this food

Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein (Min) 40.18%
Crude Fat (Min)1.67%
Salt (Max) 1.4%
Crude Fibre (Max) 3.6 %
Moisture (Max) 13.5%
Calcium (Min) 1.83%
Calcium (Max) 2.3 %
Phosphorous (Min) 1.16%
Vitamin A (Min) 10,000 Iu/Lb



Bugsy® Happy Glider - Chicken Protein! 160g
- A Totally Cooked Diet for Sugar Gliders -
Chicken Protein in Whole Grain Nutrition

A Basal Diet for Sugar Gliders.
Happy Glider is the very best basal diet available for your gliders! It is designed to be fed free choice on a continual basis with regular additions of selected fruits and protein sources. It is a great balanced diet that will help promote great health and proper weight of your sugar gliders. Gliders thrive on it nutritionally and they love the taste too.

Ingredients:
Chicken Meal, Toasted yellow corn flour, extruded soybean meal, soybean meal, extruded barley, fish meal, vegetable oil, dried whole egg, extruded oat groats, corn gluten, soy hulls, blood meal, animal plasma, calcium carbonate, vitamin E supplement, salt, potassium chloride, vitamin A acetate, D-activated animal sterol (source of vitamin D3), DL-alpha tocopheryl acetate (source of vitamin E), menadione sodium bisulphate complex (source of vitamin K), vitamin B-12 supplement, calcium pantothenate, niacin supplement, riboflavin supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, biotin, folic acid, ferrous sulfate, zinc oxcide, zinc sulfate, maganous oxide, sodium selenite, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, calcium iodate, dried lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation product, corn germ meal, dried kelp, dried tomato pomace, yeast culture, monosodium phosphate, sodium sulfate, ferric sulfate, magnesium oxide, cobalt sulfate, cane sugar, dl-methionine, pyridoxine hydrochloride, ferrous fumarate, sea salt, I-lysine, lecithin, potassium iodide, beta carotene, zinc methionine complex, hydrochloric acid, yucca schidigera extract, algae meal, diatomaceous earth, cobalt choline citrate complex, ferric choline citrate complex, calcium pantothenate, copper choline citrate complex, magnesium amino acid chelate, zinc amino acid chelate, calcium amino acid chelate, iron amino acid chelate, manganese amino acid chelate, coper amino acid chelate, cobalt amino acid chelate, thiamine mononitrate, ferrous carbonate, amylase, cellulose, maltase, phytase, protease, lipase, mixed tocopherols, citric acid, ascorbic acid, lecithin, rosemary extract.

Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein - Not less than - 32%
Crude Fat - Not less than - 12%
Crude Fiber - Not more than - 6%
Moisture - Not more than - 12%




Bugsy® Happy Glider - Fruity Flavour! 160g
- A Totally Cooked Diet for Sugar Gliders -
Whole Grain Nutrition with Multiple Source Proteins

A Basal Diet for Sugar Gliders.
Happy Glider is the very best basal diet available for your gliders! It is designed to be fed free choice on a continual basis with regular additions of selected fruits and protein sources. It is a great balanced diet that will help promote great health and proper weight of your sugar gliders. Gliders thrive on it nutritionally and they love the taste too.

Ingredients:
Toasted yellow corn flour, extruded soybean meal, toasted barley flour, soybean meal, corn gluten meal, whole dried eggs, calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, fish meal, flax meal, sweet dried whey, vitamin E supplement, animal plasma, salt, potassium chloride, vitamin A acetate, D-activated animal sterol (source of vitamin D3), DLalpha tocopheryl acetate (source of vitamin E), menadione sodium bisulphate complex (source of vitamin K), vitamin B-12 supplement, calcium pantothenate, niacin supplement, riboflavin supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, thiamine mononitrate, biotin, folic acid, ferrous sulfate, zinc oxcide, zinc sulfate, manganous oxide, sodium selenite, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, calcium iodate, dried lactobacillus acidophilus fermentation product, corn germ meal, dried kelp, dried tomato pomace, yeast culture, monosodium phosphate, sodium sulfate, ferric sulfate, magnesium oxide, cobalt sulfate, cane sugar, dl-methionine, pyridoxine hydrochloride, ferrous fumarate, sea salt, I-lysine, lecithin, potassium iodide, beta carotene, zinc methionine complex, hydrochloric acid, yucca schidigera extract, algae meal, diatomaceous earth, cobalt choline citrate complex, ferric choline citrate complex, calcium pantothenate, copper choline citrate complex, magnesium amino acid chelate, zinc amino acid chelate, calcium amino acid chelate, iron amino acid chelate, manganese amino acid chelate, copper amino acid chelate, cobalt amino acid chelate, thiamine mononitrate, ferrous carbonate, amylase, cellulose, maltase, phytase, protease, lipase, mixed tocopherols, citric acid, ascorbic acid, lecithin, rosemary extract, artificial flavours.

Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein - Not less than - 23%
Crude Fat - Not less than - 10%
Crude Fiber - Not more than - 6%
Moisture - Not more than - 12%



Bugsy® Small Carnivore Food 100g
Carnivorous and omnivorous animals need to catch live food. Feeding live food is not only important nutritionally it also helps maintain a healthy attitude in captive animals. If insects are offered as live food ensure they represent the insect stage eaten by the animal in the wild. There are considerable differences in composition between mature and immature or larval stages of insects. Animals that prey on mature insects such as moths, beetles and crickets should not be fed large numbers of larval stage insects. Captive animals are commonly fed meal worms and fly pupae which are larval stage insects. These can be poor food substitutes for many animals because of their high fat content. Fat contains twice as much energy as other nutrients and increased quantities in the diet can significantly dilute the intake of essential nutrients.

Include up to 20% of this food in the diet of gliders.



Bugsy® Yogurt Drops 100g
Yogurt Drops are packaged in air-tight, re-sealable stand up pouches.
Yogurt Drops contain sugar, partially hydrogenated palm kernel oil, whey, nonfat yogurt, titanium dioxide, lecithin, salt, and artificial flavour.
Your pets will love them!

Treats for: Sugar Gliders, Hedgehogs, Prairie dogs, Chinchillas, Squirrels and other small animals.

Coming Soon ! New Product

Choosing a Cat Food

With so many different foods on the market at different price points, how do you choose a food?

Luckily, there are many well-formulated cat foods to choose from today, and here are some guidelines to follow.

Consider your cat's activity level and weight

Although many foods on the market today are “all life stage”, you may need to choose a food that is designed to meet specific requirements. As an example, an overweight cat may need a food with fewer calories, particularly if lessening the existing food is not an option. In this case, you may feed the same volume, but your cat will be getting less calories.

Select a protein source

Lamb. Chicken, fish, which one do you choose???? Although lamb has gained popularity as a “hypoallergenic” diet, cats can acquire allergies based on exposure. In choosing a food that is suitable for allergies, choose a protein source that the cat has not eaten before. If you are not sure, go with something obscure, such as salmon. Any protein source for the non allergic cat is suitable, provided it is a meat-based protein source, such as chicken. Below we discuss the quality of proteins based on their “biological value”.

Look at the ingredients

Quality ingredients are essential for a healthy food. Some economy brands of cat food are made from inexpensive ingredients that, are not easily digested. They do not provide the best nutrition. While they may technically meet the legal specifications for percentages of protein, fat, carbohydrates, etc., these foods have lower energy values and lower-grade proteins. Because of this, many health-building nutrients may pass right through your cat's system without being absorbed. It also means that you have to feed larger amounts of that lower quality food to provide your cat with the same nutrition as a smaller amount of premium food. When you compare the cost of these foods on a per-serving basis, and realize how quickly you go through a bag, economy foods may actually cost more in the long run.

When you are looking for a healthy food for your cat, reviewing the list of ingredients on the back of the bag is a good place to start. By law, pet food labels must list their ingredients by weight. Look for a species specific meal as the first ingredient, ie chicken meal, salmon meal. Species specific meals DO NOT contain heads, feet, feathers, entrails etc., as these would be “by-product meals”. These ingredients all have a high biological value, which means they have a high percentage of protein in the form of digestible, usable amino acids.

Extras to look for

Always choose a food that has a balanced Omega 3/6 ratio. Look under the guaranteed analysis for this information, or somewhere on the packaging. Some examples of great Omega 3 sources are Salmon Oil, Flax Oil, and Canola Oil.
There are many ways to preserve a food naturally. Look for these natural preservatives Vitamin C, Vitamin E, or Rosemary.
As well, chelated minerals and pre and probiotics are important additives.


Testimonials.
http://www.petcurean.com/index.php?page_id=51

Cat Foods are available !

Kursus Asas Penternakan Arnab

*Matlamat & Halatuju Peternakan Arnab.
*Pasaran dan Daya Maju.
*Biologi Arnab.
*Anatomi & Fisiologi.
*Sistem Pencernaan.
*Sistem Reproduksi.
*Kaedah penternakan Tepat.
*Rutin Operasi Penternakan.
*Pembiakan Secara Natural.
*Pembiakan Secara Intensif.
*Rekod Data Arnab.

Spesies – spesies Arnab

HOLLAND LOP
Arnab ini mempunyai ciriyang khusus, di mana bentuk tubuhnya penuh dan padat. Kepalanya berbentuk lebar dan berwarna hitam. Keunikannya adlah kebanyakan daripada spesies ini mempunyai telinga yang sangat panjang dan tergantung lurus ke bawah (lop – eared). Misalnya arnab jenis French Lop dan English Lop , masing – masing mempunyai telinga yang berukuran melebihi 50 cm. Selain itu, telinganya juga amat tebal, tergantung lurus dari bahagian tepi kepala sehingga ke bawah tetapi tidak bergeser dengan tanah atau bahagian hujungnya yang berbentuk bulat.

Di antara pelbagai spesies Lop, English Lop merupakan arnab yang terkenal. Badanya berbentuk “Mandlin type”. Telinga sangat panjang dan “lop” sehingga mencapai ukuran melebihi 50 cm dan lebar ¼ dari panjangnya. Ia terdiri daripada pelbagai warna iaitu kuning, coklat kekuningan, putih dan pelbagai variasi warna yang lebih seragam. Warna putih jelas kelihatan dari bawah dagu sehingga ke bahagian perut. Berat induk dewasa boleh mencecah sehingga 4.5 – 5 kg. Antara spesies lop yang dihasilkan selepas menjalani proses penyilangan adalah seperti Holland Lop, French Lop, Seal Point Cashmere Lop, Smoke Pearl Cashmer Lop, Red-eye White Cashmere Lop, Black Cashmere Lop dan American Fuzzy Lop.

Induk betina akan menjaga dan menyusukan anaknya. Umumnya, induk betina mampu melahirkan sehingga 6 – 8 ekor anak bagi satu kelahiran. Oleh itu, dalam tempoh setahun, bilangan anak arnab yang boleh dilahirkan ialah 36 ekor. Pertumbuhan anak arnab adalah cepat dan membentuk struktur tubuh yang mempunyai isi yang padat. Sebagai contohnya, terdapat anak arnab yang berumur 2 bulan boleh mencapai berat badan sehingga 1.8 kg. Usaha penternakan arnab spesies ini dilakukan dengan tujuan untuk mendapatkan daging dan sesuai dijadikan haiwan peliharaan yang jinak.


NETHERLAND DWARF
Spesies arnab bersaiz kecil ini berasal dari belanda (Netherlands). Ia merupakan kacukan di antara arnab spesies Polish dan arnab liar yang kecil. Ia amat terkenal di seluruh dunia sebagai arnab mini. Berat induk dewasa hanya 0.9 kg. Ia banyak dipelihara sebagai haiwan peliharaan.

Lazimnya arnab ini mempunyai pelbagai warna dan corak seperti putih, bayangan, “agouti”, corak “tan”, “fawn”, “Himalayan”, jingga, “steel”, dan “tortoiseshell”. Bulu pendek dan padat. Telinga berbulu, tegang dan Nampak pendek jika dibandingkan dengan kepala. Bulu warna hitam semulajadi. Panjang telinganya 5.5 cm dan berdiri tegak ke atas.


ANGORA
Asal usul spesies arnab ini masih tidak dapat dijelaskan. Terdapat andaian menyatakan ia merupakan spesies arnab liar yang telah berkembang secara semulajadi dan bermutasi sehingga menghasilkan arnab yang berbulu panjang. Ia tidak dibiak oleh pembiak (breeder) tertentu.

Angora pertama kali ditemui dan dibawa bersama-sama oleh ahli pelayar British. Seterusnya, pada tahun 1723, ia dibawa ke Perancis dan kemudiannya tersebar ke Jerman pada tahun 1777. Pada tahun 1920, spesies ini telah berkembang dengan meluas di beberapa buah Negara Eropah Timur, Jepun, Kanada, dan Amerika Syarikat. Kegiatan penternakan arnab Angora di perancis adlah yang terbesar dan telah dilakukan secara komersial untuk menghasilkan bulu (wool).

Berat arnab dewasa diangarkan 2.7Kg, baik arnab jantan mahupun betina. Pada awalnya, arnab Angora hanya berbulu putih dan panjang. Setelah melalui pelbagai proses pembiakan ,bulunya semakin berubah dengan pelbagai warna, misalnya coklat. Bulunya halus, tebal dan kuat.Pertumbuhan bulunya diangarkan 2.5 cm setiap bulan. Bulu tersebut perlu dipotong 6 hingga 8 cm setiap 3 Bulan. Jika dibiarkan, bulu tersebut akan menjadi semakin panjang, cenderung menjadi kusut dan bergumpal.

Penentuan Jantina

Bagaimanakah menentukan jantina arnab yang masih di peringkat anak ?


Penentuan jantina boleh dilakukan dengan menekan secara perlahan bahagian lubang di atas dubur. Anak jantan akan menunjukkan tanda bonjolan yang membulat. Sementara anak arnab betina akan menunjukkan tanda belahan mengarah ke dubur.