Jumaat, 14 Oktober 2011

Kittens For Sale (SOLD OUT)

Promosi Price Call for the best Price (0129102132)
DOB : 12 Ogos 2011
Vacination and Dewormed
Litter Trained
Eats Iams Kitten
Healthy and Playfull
Promosi Price Call for the best Price (0129102132)
DOB : 12 Ogos 2011
Vacination and Dewormed
Litter Trained
Eats Iams Kitten
Healthy and Playfull
Promosi Price Call for the best Price (0129102132)
DOB : 12 Ogos 2011
Vacination and Dewormed
Litter Trained
Eats Iams Kitten
Healthy and Playfull
Promosi Price Call for the best Price (0129102132)
DOB : 12 Ogos 2011
Vacination and Dewormed
Litter Trained
Eats Iams Kitten
Healthy and Playfull

Selasa, 11 Oktober 2011

Premium Alfalfa (First Cut) -BUY 2 Free 1-

We have 10kg , 30kg , and 60kg.
Call or Sms for best price.

PROMOSI Oktober 2011 !! RM 520.00

~ SuGar Glider ~
~ CageS 1.5 FEET ~
~ Wodent Wheel ~
~ Sleeping Porch Bugsy ~
~ HPW Complete Bugsy ~

"Please do research about SG before buying"
**We will provide information about SG but only general knowledge**

Isnin, 10 Oktober 2011

How to Know if Your Rabbit is Pregnant


  1. 1
    Gently palpate (touch or probe) the lower abdomen using your thumb and forefinger on the rabbit's right side.
  2. 2
    Feel for marble-sized bumps in the lower half of the abdomen, at shallow to mid-depth
    . If you feel one or more, the doe is pregnant. Don't mistake pellets for babies.
  3. 3
    Pregnant rabbits can be spayed, terminating the pregnancy and preventing further pregnancies. Rabbit overpopulation is a serious problem, and rabbits are the third most euthanized pet at shelters, after cats and dogs.
  4. 4
    Place a nest box inside of doe's cage at about day 28 of the pregnancy. Give her a box when you see her pulling fur from her belly, or if you feed hay, carrying grass around in her mouth. Doe should kindle (give birth) approximately 2 days after you place the nest box in the cage.
    • Some does don't begin to pull fur until right before or during the birth; others start pulling fur about 4 days before the birth.


How to Groom Your RabbitTaken from the books 'The Essential Rabbit' & 'The Rabbit Handbook'
Rabbit breeds have four different types of hair : -
  1. Normal fur is a dense undercoat with coarse guard hairs extending past the undercoat.
  2. Satin fur is fine and has a hairshaft that reflects light, giving it a spectacular sheen.
  3. Rex fur is denser than normal fur and the guard hairs are about the same length as the undercoat. Rex fur also stands up perpendicular to the skin, giving it a unique feel.
  4. The last type of fur is wool and is found on Angora rabbits. There are actually four different types of wool found on different types of Angoras.

Caring for Angoras
The care of an Angora coat is very much different from that of other breeds because their wool - not fur is quite long. For pet Angora rabbits, it is quite acceptable to keep their hair cut short so that it does not get as dirty and is easier to manage. If you do cut the fur, do not trim it right to the skin level. Fur offers natural protection against heat, cold, and anything that may injure the skin. Angoras will require frequent brushing, whereas other breeds of rabbits require less coat maintenance. It is especially important to not trim the fur from your rabbit's hocks and back feet as this will definitely predispose him to hock sores.
Most rabbits, like cats, are fastidious groomers and will groom their coats to a nice, clean finish. Consequently, rabbits can end up swallowing a lot of hair and developing hairballs. To help reduce the amount of hair your rabbit will ingest, brush them at least once a week.
If your rabbit is going through a heavy shed, you should brush them everyday. Brushing should be done in the natural direction of the hair coat; if you reverse the stroke and go from tail to head too frequently, you will damage the hair.
Rabbits shed every three months. One shed will be light and may not even be noticeable; the next shed will be heavy. Rabbits can lose a lot of hair during a heavy shed and may even develop bald areas. It may be easier during these periods to gently pull out loose hair with your fingers and follow up with a brushing. Dampening your hands with water and stroking your rabbit from head to tail will also help remove dead hair.
Note : Each rabbit sheds for a different period of time. For some rabbits, the shed will only last a day or two; for others, it will last two weeks.
Be careful when selecting a brush for your rabbit. Although rabbit coats are fairly thick, the skin underneath is very delicate and you obviously do not want to injure the skin with a painful brush. Also, you do not want your rabbit to feel discomfort or pain during your brushings - you want your bunny to learn to enjoy brushings. For that reason, slicker brushes and some hard metal brushes are inappropriate. A bristle brush or pin brush is more appropriate for rabbit grooming.
To remove loose hair, you may want to follow a brushing with a combing. Use a fine-toothed comb so that it will grab the finer dead hairs. Some combs are silicone-coated to glide easily.
Tip : Long hair is very difficult to manage on rabbits. You should consider clipping the hair short, to about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length.
In general, rabbits do not need to be bathed. For many rabbits, bathing is a stressful experience and as a source of stress, it has the potential for bringing our illness. If your rabbit has only a small area of their body that needs to be cleaned, bathe that area only. Non-medicated shampoos designed for dogs and cats are fine for rabbits. If you can find one, use a hypoallergenic non soap shampoo with moisturisers or conditioners. Do not use a shampoo made for humans; our shampoos are very drying to animals. Make sure your rabbit does not become chilled from its bath. If necessary, rabbits can be dried with a hair dryer set to a warm setting. High settings should never be used because of the risk of heat stress.
If you absolutely must bathe your rabbit's face, be very sure to keep shampoo out of their eyes. You can protect them by applying a non-medicated eye ointment over the cornea before the bath. A drop of mineral oil can be used as a substitute for eye ointment, but only use it sparingly.
Your bunny's ears should also be attended to during the regular grooming session. Examine them for signs of waxy buildup or debris. Clean your bunny's ears with a solution that can be purchased from your Vet. Dark wax or the appearance of dirt in the ears can be a sign of ear mites. Never stick cotton swabs or any such items into the ear canal. If you own one of the lop-eared breeds, you will have to pay special attention to the ears during grooming time. Because an ear that hangs down instead of standing straight up is not natural and fosters moisture buildup, lop-eared rabbits are more prone to ear infections. Examine your lop's ears closely for excess wax buildup, debris or foul smell.
Trimming your rabbit's toenails is also a necessary part of your grooming sessions, although it will not need to be done every week. Check the length and condition of your rabbit's nails every time you groom them. Once they appear to be getting long, it is time to trim them.
Prepare to trim your rabbit's nails by wrapping them in a towel and placing them gently in your lap, with the bunny's legs facing upward. Use your clipper to take off a portion of the nail. Be careful not to cut the quick in the toenail (the quick is the end of the live pink tissue in the nail bed and includes blood and nerves), because doing so can cause pain to the rabbit and a bloody toenail. A silhouette of the quick can be seen by holding the nail up to a light.
If your nervous about trimming your bunny's nails, or if your bunny struggles when you try to hold them in your lap, you may want to ask your vet to show you how to perform this necessary function safely and effectively before you do it yourself.
When you are brushing and combing your pet, keep an eye out for fleas. Rabbits are just as susceptible to fleas as dogs are especially if they live or play outside. If you find fleas on your pet, contact your veterinarian for information on how to rid your rabbit of these pests. Your vet can provide you with rabbit safe chemicals designed to kill fleas and give you details on how to eliminate fleas from your rabbit's environment.
As you brush or comb your rabbit, keep an eye out for any lumps or sores on them which may be an indication of disease or infection. Crusts and scabs suggest the presence of mites.
While you are handling your rabbit, check its eyes and ears for any discharge. Examine the bottoms of its feet for sores and check under its chin to make sure that their scent gland is not swollen or infected.


Sabtu, 17 September 2011

Doktor Veterinar Di Sini

AFS Rabbitry Pet Shop telah menyediakan perkhidmatan  Veterinar.
Sila Buat Temujanji.
Perkhidmatan disediakan pada hari dan masa :-
3.00 PM hingga 7.00 PM
Hubungi Kami :- 

Servis kami termasuk :-
  • Pemeriksaan rutin
  • Vaksinasi dan ubat pencegah cacing
  • Perubatan pencegahan
  • Pembedahan pengkasian
  • Pembedahan lain-lain
  • Perkhidmatan X-ray
  • Perkhidmatan diagnosa
  • Perkhidmatan gigi
  • Pemeriksaan haiwan peliharaan eksotik
  • Mikro chip


NEW Pakage for Sugar Glider(end promosi)

Pakage A

  • 1 Sugar Glider
  • Cage 1.5 Feet
  • Wodent Wheel 11"
  • Sleeping Pouch
  • Pellet 200g
  • HPW Complete

Pakage B
  • 1 pair Sugar Glider
  • Cage 3 Feet
  • Wodent Wheel 11"
  • Sleeping Pouch
  • Pellet 200g
  • HPW Complete

Pakage Wodent Wheel

Limited Stock only
If you interested with our Promotion just call or sms me :- 
0129102132 - Fahmi

Jumaat, 19 Ogos 2011

Lame x update!!

Salam kepada pembaca blog ini,firstly saya minta maaf cos dah lame tak updat for the new things.sejak kebelakagan ini saya sngat buzy dgn class and asingmnt.kalau kowng nk dpt harga yg berpatutan , kowng boleh datng terus ke kedai kami.Kami sedia membantu n memberi sedikit tips or bantuan..;-)

Thank You for who always support our petshop.
AFS Rabbitry pet shop.

Khamis, 14 Julai 2011

Al Kisah Tupai Terbang a.k.a Sugar Glider Diet!!

Sugar Glider adalah haiwan yang sangat kecil dan comel.Ia adalah sejenis marsupium yang berasal dari Australia, New Guinea dan Indonesia.Ia bersaiz kira-kira 6.5 - 7.5 inci panjang ,dengan ekor lebat.Ia kelihatan seperti seekor tupai terbang, tapi sangat berbeza.Ia biasanya kelabu dengan jalur hitam ke belakang, hujung hitam di ekor, telinga hitam, dan perut berwarna krim.Ia juga terdapat banyak variasi warna juga. Bulu amat lembut disentuh seperti baldu.


Sebagai pemilik Sugar Glider baru, semua ini mungkin kelihatan sangat susah pada mulanya.Diet seolah-olah menjadi perkara yang paling rumit untuk kita pada mulanya.
Bagi mereka yang ingin benar-benar melakukan beberapa penyelidikan, ini adalah kompenen utama diet Sugar Glider yang disyorkan :

1. Main Course(Bugsy® HPW Complete)
2. Fruits and Vegetables
3. Dry Staple Food (Bugsy® Happy Glider)
4. Protein(Mealworm or Bugsy® Happy Glider-Chicken Protein)
5. Treats(Bugsy® Tutti Frutti and Bugsy® Yogurt Drops)
6. Calcium(Bugsy® Glider-Cal)
7. Vitamins(Bugsy® Glider Booster)

Rabu, 13 Julai 2011


The jackalope is a legendary animal described as a jackrabbit with antelope horns on its head.

The legend of the rare but nasty creature native to the Midwestern U.S. originated with the cowboys of Wyoming. The true jackalope is a humorous myth. A mounted jackalope is a common souvenir easily manufactured by taxidermists by attaching deer antlers to a hare’s head. Picture postcards of jackalopes are also widespread at gift shops throughout the American west.

Curiously, this piece of folklore has a genuine scientific explanation. There really are actual specimens of rabbits with horny growths on their heads. These are not true “horns” but abnormal growths that may be caused by a virus (called Papillomavirus, it is common in cottontail rabbits and is similar to a human version that causes warts.)

The legend of the horned rabbit is also part of other cultures. Bavarian folklore (now Germany) has it’s own tale of a stag-deer called the “raurackl”. Researchers suspect that the stories of these creatures around Europe and Asia resulted from sightings of viral-infected rabbits.

Sabtu, 2 Julai 2011

Sugar Glider for SALE !!

RM 280 sekor
RM 550 free cage or sleeping pouch.
2 month and above
Sms or call me if u have any question:
Fahmi 012-9102132

Holland Lop

What are Holland Lops?

Holland Lops are the smallest of the lop breeds. They are usually between three and four pounds as adults. They are a dwarf breed of rabbit. They are very sweet, friendly, and curious little animals. They love for people to pet them and spend time with them.

What should I feed my Holland?

Holland Lops require a diet of low protein and high fiber. Find a brand of feed which has no more than 16% protein, and no less than 21% fiber. Always check your Holland's feed to make sure that it is dry and smells good. If your Holland refuses to eat his food, check it to see if there's a reason he didn't want it. Feed should be stored in a metal trash can. The smell of plastic from a plastic bucket or trash can permeate the food. When you switch feed on your Holland, do it little by little over a week's time. A quick change of feed can cause a great amount of stress to their delicate systems. As a general rule, Holland's need one ounce of pellets per pound of body weight daily. Most Holland's do well on 1/2 cup of feed. Hay should be fed to your Holland preferably every day, but at least three times a week. Make sure it is clean hay which is sweet smelling and not musty or moldy. Good snacks for Holland's are: cheerios, rolled oats, unfrosted shredded eat, and oiled sunflower seeds. Vegetables and fruits should be fed in very small quantities and only to Holland's over 6 months of age. These should be fed in small amounts. Do not feed your Holland lettuce or grass, as it can be very deadly. Always have fresh water available to your Holland.

How should I house my Holland?

Holland Lops can be kept indoors or outdoors. When housing them outdoors, make sure they are always in the shade with a roof over their cage. In the heat of the summer, you can freeze water in coke bottles and give them to your Holland to lean against. Do not assume they will be okay in the shade when it is over 85 degrees. Holland's have very thick coats, so they do fine outside in the winter in most areas of the U.S. If you are concerned that it may be too cold outside, give them a big bunch of hay to burrow in. A Holland's cage should be at least 24 X 24. Holland Lops make great house pets, and can be litter trained. For more information on house training, a great book to read is "LOP RABBITS as pets" by Sandy Crook.

What type of care does my Holland need?

Hollands do not need to be brushed most of the time, but they do enjoy it. Howevr, they do need to be brushed when going through a molt. The old fur needs to be removed before they ingest it. You should clip your Holland's nails about every eight weeks. You should always check your rabbit daily for any abnormalities. Sometimes rabbits are plagued with ear and fur mites. The fastest and best way to take care of both of these is to administer Ivomectrin 1% for cattle and swine orally. The dosage is 1/10cc per pound. Repeat the dosage seven days later and then every three months thereafter. Another cure for ear mites is to put a few drops of mineral oil in each ear and rub gently. Do this twice a day for three days. If you have any other medical problems with your rabbit, contact a Holland Lop breeder who can help you figure out what to do.

Jumaat, 17 Jun 2011

Iams Cat Food is available !!

Paul F. Iams established his company based on a philosophy of innovation and a belief that an emphasis on advanced nutrition would lead to premium quality other pet foods lacked. Since then, we’ve enhanced the well being of dogs and cats worldwide by providing inventive and highly nutritious pet foods.

A Different Approach to Pet Food
Our nutritional difference is not only based on years of research and dedication to the health of pets. It comes from a different, innovative way of thinking about the dietary requirements and behaviors of dogs and cats and about a breakthrough approach to the value of advanced nutrition. We believe that the right diet can do amazing things for pets, like boost immunity, help burn fat, help maintain muscle and promote healthy digestion, aid in weight loss, reduce tartar build-up, and, in some instances, even nutritionally manage the progression of disease.

We were the first to:
Consider feeding cats and dogs as carnivores.
Develop dry, animal-protein based diets suited to the needs of dogs and cats.
Tailor formulas by life stage, even developing a puppy food that actually helps make puppies smarter and more trainable.
Develop formulas to meet common needs of pets and their owners, like cat food for multi-cat households, and formulas that help meet the needs of senior animals
It’s this kind of thinking that has made us pet nutrition leaders, and these kinds of discoveries that have shaped the whole of the pet food industry. We hold multiple U.S. Patents, and have conducted research that has led to industry-wide acceptance of our health advances. We’re very proud of these contributions, which have helped improve the health of pets worldwide.

Quality First
Quality is at the core of our business. When it comes to our products, we only use high quality ingredients. Our motto: never cut corners—never compromise.

We abide by incredibly high standards to ensure the quality and safety of our ingredients to make sure our nutritious formulas are healthy and safe for pets. We insist on constant and rigorous ingredient inspections throughout the manufacturing process, from initial truckload sample screenings to the moment our pet food bags leave the plant. We run more than 120 quality assurance tests on each bag of Iams pet food. We also pull product samples for complete nutritional analysis of each batch of formula produced, and all of our ingredients are evaluated based on strict nutritional quality and safety specifications.

It is this commitment to innovation and quality that defines Iams, from our pioneering research in nutrition to our high standards of safety and ingredient testing, to our efforts to help pets worldwide live long and healthy lives.

Khamis, 16 Jun 2011

Semua Rezeki Datangnya Dari Allah s.w.t

Semua Rezeki Datangnya dari Allah SWT.


ADA sebuah restoran di taman perumahan kami, amat maju dikunjungi ramai
pelanggan, beroperasi bertahun-tahun, tiba-tiba ada restoran baru dibuka yang
mengakibatkan restoran tadi kehilangan hampir semua pelanggan, akhirnya ditutup.
Orang mengatakan restoran yang maju tiba-tiba gulung tikar berpunca daripada
perbuatan orang menutup rezeki dengan menggunakan perbuatan sihir sehingga
bankrap, betul kah begitu?

ABDUL HALIM MOHAMMAD Meru, Selangor JAWAPAN Umat Islam perlu yakin dengan sepenuh-penuhnya bahawa rezeki terletak dalam kekuasaan Allah atau di tangan Allah, bukan di tangan makhluk.

Mahfum Firman Allah (Saba’:24)
Katakanlah: "Siapakah yang memberi rezeki kepada mu dari langit dan dari
bumi?" Katakanlah: "Allah", dan Sesungguhnya Kami atau kamu (orang-
orang musyrik), pasti berada dalam kebenaran atau dalam kesesatan yang

Mahfum Firman Allah (Al-Ankabut:60)
Dan berapa banyak binatang yang tidak (dapat) membawa (mengurus)
rezekinya sendiri. Allah-lah yang memberi rezeki kepadanya dan kepadamu
dan Dia Maha mendengar lagi Maha mengetahui

Mahfum Firman Allah (Ali Imran:26):
Katakanlah: "Wahai Tuhan yang mempunyai kerajaan, Engkau berikan
kerajaan kepada orang yang Engkau kehendaki dan Engkau cabut kerajaan
dari orang yang Engkau kehendaki. Engkau muliakan orang yang Engkau
kehendaki dan Engkau hinakan orang yang Engkau kehendaki. di tangan
Engkaulah segala kebajikan. Sesungguhnya Engkau Maha Kuasa atas segala

Memang banyak ayat-ayat Al-Quran yang merujuk kepada rezeki sebenar yang kita
perolehatau yang hilang daripada kita semuanya dikembalikan kepada Allah SWT
Adapun yang dirujuk kepada saya dalam soalan ini, seolah-olah memberi makna
bahawa ada manusia yang berikhtiar menutup rezeki orang lain dan membuka rezeki
Dengan erti kata lain, ada manusia boleh mengkayakan atau memiskinkan manusia
dengan kebolehannya, maka tentulah logiknya dia juga boleh membuka rezeki
dirinya (untuk memperkayakan diri sendiri), bahawa dengan kekayaan itu dia boleh,
membantu orang yang susah dan bukan menyusahkan orang yang sudah senang.

Secara logiknya, membuka rezeki lebih mudah daripada menutupnya. Contohnya,
membuat sebuah bangunan lebih susah daripada membukanya. Memasang satu
pintu mengambil masa yang lama dan sukar, sebaliknya memecahkan pintu adalah
mudah dan sekejap sahaja.

Pada saya mungkin, restoran yang pertama, dibuka awal, tiada saingan, maka
dengan sendirinya ramai pelanggan. Manakala restoran lain dibuka, dengan cara
yang berbeza, layanan dan makanannya mungkin lebih berkualiti, muka ramai yang
tertarik dan mengubah selera.
Sememangnya ada orang mengadu kepada saya bahawa premis perniagaannya tidak
dapat dilihat oleh pelanggan, seolah-olah telah ditutup. Terpaksa berpindah ke
tempat lain. Sedangkan restoran itu sebenarnya masih dibuka.
Mungkin juga pelanggan tidak perasan wujudnya restoran tersebut. Mungkin juga
pelanggan hilang konsentrasi. Sebagai contoh ada ketika kita pernah kehilangan
seuatu benda (cermin mata misalnya), lalu kita mencarinya di merata-rata tempat,
setelah puas mencari tidak berjumpa.

Maka isteri, bertanya, “Apakah yang kita cari, kita menjawab mencari cermin mata.
Lalu dia memberitahu, “Itu cermin mata ada di atas meja”.
Mengapa selepas kita puas mencari tidak bertemu? Apakah kita disihirkan orang
sehingga benda yang begitu mudah tidak dijumpai? Mungkin benar ada orang
mengusahakan seperti meletakkan sesuatu yang dipercayai boleh menyekat rezeki,
tetapi yakini lah bahawa semua itu adalah usaha jahat manusia, walhal punca rezeki
sebenar-benarnya di tangan Allah.

Bagaimanapun kita mesti berusaha menghindarkan perbuatan jahat manusia, seperti dengki khianat sebagaimana yang disebut dalam Surah an-Naas. Oleh itu, mohonlah kepada Allah, mohon perlindungan kepada-Nya. Carilah sebab-sebabnya mengapa Allah takdirkan keadaan sedemikian berlaku.

Rabu, 15 Jun 2011

Blackwood is available !!

About Blackwood..

Blackwood® has been developing and delivering premium quality pet food for more than a decade, and our global reputation has been built on the ability to design and manufacture the highest quality, super premium, pet foods under strict tolerances. All Blackwood products are sold through a network of independent dealers and distributors in the USA and internationally on three continents. We do not sell our products to the big box pet stores.

With more than thirty years of experience manufacturing super premium diets, Ohio Pet Foods, Inc. was selected as Blackwood Pet Food’s dry manufacturing partner due to their ability to maximize nutrient availability of proteins, vitamins, carbohydrates and fats in the cooking process. Blackwood products utilize a higher cook rate for carbohydrates which helps increase digestibility and lessen the workload on your pet’s digestive system, thus lowering the stool volume. This equates to less clean up and reduces the cost of feeding your pets.

Blackwood pet foods are free from: soy or wheat products, chemical preservatives, artificial colors, flavors, fillers, or by-product meals (which can contain feathers, beaks and feet). Our foods contain only choice quality sources of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals; for the perfect balance in an overall diet.

Blackwood | Adult Cat Food
• Ideal for adult cats and All Life Stages
• Contains 30% crude protein

Nutritionally Complete & Balanced:
Blackwood Adult Cat food is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO cat food nutrient profiles for “All Life Stages”.

Ingredient List:
Chicken Meal, Ground Corn, Brown Rice, Wheat Flour, Chicken Fat (Preserved with Mixed Tocopherols, a natural source of Vitamin E), Dried Beet Pulp, Menhaden Fish Meal, Brewers Dried Yeast, Natural Flavors, Potassium Chloride, L-Lysine, Salt, D/L Methionine, Calcium Carbonate, Ascorbic Acid, Taurine, Yucca Schidigera Extract.

Kelp Meal, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Vegetable Oil, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Vitamin A Acetate, Riboflavin Supplement, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Citric Acid, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid, Potassium Chloride, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Zinc Proteinate, Iron Proteinate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Manganous Oxide, Sodium Selenite, Calcium Iodate.

Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein, not less than………….……..30.0%
Crude Fat, not less than……………….……15.0%
Crude Fiber, not more than…………..………3.5%
Moisture, not more than………………….…10.0%
Ash, not more than…………………………...5.5%

Feeding Suggestions*:
Weight of Cat (lbs.) Daily Amount (cups)
3-5 1/4 - 1/3
5-10 1/3 -1/2
10 -15 1/2 - 2/3
15 - 20 2/3 - 1
*These are quantity suggestions, the amount you feed your pet can vary and depend greatly upon the breed, their activity level, metabolism and your preferences.

Fresh, clean water should be kept available to the cat at all times.


Blackwood | Kitten Food
• Ideal for All Life Stages
• Nutritionally complete and balanced

Nutritionally Complete & Balanced:
Blackwood Kitten food is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO cat food nutrient profiles for “All Life Stages”.

Ingredient List:
Chicken Meal, Brown Rice, Whole Ground Oat Groats, Chicken Fat (Preserved with Mixed Tocopherols, a natural source of Vitamin E), Dried Beet Pulp, Chicken Egg Product, Herring Meal, Brewers Dried Yeast, Natural Flavors, Lecithin, Lamb Meal, Fish Oil, D/L Methionine, Potassium Chloride, Salt, L-Lysine, Taurine, Garlic Salt, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Ascorbic Acid.

Kelp Meal, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Vegetable Oil, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Vitamin A Acetate, Riboflavin Supplement, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Citric Acid, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid, Potassium Chloride, Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Zinc Proteinate, Iron Proteinate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Manganese Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Manganous Oxide, Sodium Selenite, Calcium Iodate.

Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein, not less than………….……..33.0%
Crude Fat, not less than………………..……21.0%
Crude Fiber, not more than…………………2.75%
Moisture, not more than………………….…10.0%
Ash, not more than…………………………...6.5%

Feeding Suggestions*:
Weight of Cat (lbs.) Daily Amount (cups)
3-5 1/4 - 1/3
5-10 1/3 -1/2
10 -15 1/2 - 2/3
15 - 20 2/3 - 1
*These are quantity suggestions, the amount you feed your pet can vary and depend greatly upon the breed, their activity level, metabolism and your preferences.

Fresh, clean water should be kept available to the cat at all times.


Jumaat, 10 Jun 2011

Royal Canin is available !!!

Man first became aware of the cat for its hunting talent. Originally serving the utilitarian role of ridding rats, the cat charmed its way into domestication. Historians believe cats began living side-by-side with humans as early as 4000 B.C. Since then, feline nutrition has come a long way. From mice to brown rice, nutrition has evolved from life-sustaining to life-enhancing. And Royal Canin has been at the forefront every step of the way.

The four objectives of proper nutrition.
The right diet should do more than provide calories for your cat. It should work synergistically with your cat's digestive, metabolic and immune systems to maximize her health and longevity.

Objective 1: Food as body development and maintenance.
This is what proteins, minerals, trace elements, vitamins and some lipids do.

Objective 2: Food as energy.
This is done by lipids and carbohydrates.

Objective 3: Food as prevention.
This is achieved with specific nutrients incorporated into food rations such as antioxidants and nutraceuticals. Nutrients can contribute to the prevention of renal infections or digestive disorders, for example, and have an anti-aging effect.

Objective 4: Food as medicine.
Certain nutrients added to food support the therapeutic or convalescence process, helping pets recover from a number of ailments.

Why you can't judge a food by its label.
By law, food manufacturers are required to list ingredients by precooked weight in descending order. Often times, fresh meat or other water-rich ingredients are at the top of the list. You would think that means they represent the main nutritional ingredient, right? Wrong.

For example, lamb is a meat with high water content. So even if lamb is the first ingredient listed (because its precooked weight represents 25% of the diet), it actually only nets out to 4% or 5% lamb protein after all the water is cooked off. If the same food also contains 20% corn, 20% rice, 15% dried fish, 10% poultry fat and 10% vegetable oil, the manufacturer is still allowed to write "Lamb" as the first ingredient even though cereals will be the main ingredients in terms of quantity in the end product.

At Royal Canin, we put our emphasis on nutrients rather than ingredients.
We concentrate first on the right balance of protein, minerals, vitamins, lipids and carbohydrates, and then select the best ingredient sources for those nutrients. It’s a difference that will make a noticeable difference in your cat.

Rabbit House for Sale!!

For more information please call or email me:

H/p : 012-9102132

email : afs.rabbit@gmail.com


Breeding Box for Sale!!

For more information please call or email me:

H/p : 012-9102132

email : afs.rabbit@gmail.com


Selasa, 7 Jun 2011

Ahad, 5 Jun 2011

Promosi Sugar Glider!!

Promosi Sugar Glider !!
Pair - RM 500(free HPW for 3 month)
if interested plz give me a call - 0129102132
(Saujana Utama,Sg Buloh)

Ahad, 22 Mei 2011

General information about Sugar Glider

Sugar gliders have become a popular exotic pet. They are small and relatively easy to care for, and have a cute if not unusual appearance. As with any other exotic pet, a potential owner should be aware of their care requirements and personality before acquiring a sugar glider. diets,

Natural History

Sugar Gliders are marsupials; that is their young start life off in a pouch (like a kangaroo). They originally hail from Australia, Indonesia and New Guinea, and live in forests. Their name is derived from their diet (in part they feed on nectar and the sap of eucalyptus), and from the flap of skin they have between their wrists and ankles that allows them to glide between trees. They are omnivorous, meaning they will eat plant material and meat - food in the wild include nectar, fruit, insects and even small birds or rodents. They live in social family units in the wild, a trait which makes them inclined to bond well with their human family. However, if they are deprived of social interaction they will not thrive (in fact they can become depressed to the point where they may die).

Sugar gliders make endearing, playful, and entertaining pets. As mentioned above they are very social, and ideally they should be kept in pairs or groups, and in any case they should have a good deal of social interaction with their owners. They are fairly clean and do not have complex housing requirements. In addition, they tend to be fairly healthy (although it may be difficult to find an experienced vet to treat them) and can live to be 12-14 years in captivity. They do need a good amount of interaction (even if it is just riding around in a pocket all day), and aren't great housetraining candidates. Their nails are sharp and will scratch if they need to dig in while climbing or landing on you (keep them well trimmed). They also have sharp teeth and though not aggressive, will bite if they feel threatened or frightened. If not acquired tame and used to being handled, it may take a great deal of time and patience to get them to the point where they are cuddly.

Sugar Gliders do have fairly strict dietary requirements. The ideal diet for sugar glider is still a widely debated topic among keepers. For some recommendedsee "Feeding Sugar Gliders" for more information on diets and the diet options that are recommended by others. A potential problem in sugar gliders is paralysis stemming from an imbalance of calcium to phosphorus in the diet (i.e. too low in calcium and/or high in phosphorus). This diesease (called nutritional osteodystrophy) can be prevented by proper diet and vitamin/mineral supplements.

As for housing, a cage of 24 by 24 inches, by 36 inches high is a good minimum size for a pair. This is a minimum, though - bigger is better and for sugar gliders the height is more valuable than floor space. The cage wire should be no more than 1/2 inch wide, and horizontal cage bars allow climbing. The interior of the cage should provide lots of interest with toys, and exercise wheel, nest box and/or glider pouch. Branches, ropes and ladders provide lots of opportunity for climbing and exercise. For more details on cages and accessories for sugar gliders, see "Housing Sugar Gliders."


If a sugar glider is not tame when acquired, time, patience, and gentle frequent training sessions will eventually allow bonding of the glider to its owner. Gliders adore being near their owners, inside a shirt (hint wear two shirts and let the glider hang out between them, or else their claws will tickle or scratch!) or in a pocket. They will be lovely companions, who view you as an equal. Sugar gliders do not respond at all to punishment or domination, so treat them with respect, gentleness and understanding, and you will be rewarded with a devoted companion!

History of Syrian hamsters

There are many different species of hamsters but the most popular type to be kept as a pet is the Syrian or Golden hamster. Syrian hamsters belong to the Suborder of the Animal Kingdom, Myomorpha and to the Genus Mesocricetus and species Auratus, which gives them their formal scientific name of Mesocricetus Auratus.

These hamsters originated in the desert areas of Syria and Syrian hamsters were first reported as far back as the 18th century.

The first hard evidence of their existence was provided by the zoologist George Waterhouse in 1839, when from an expedition to Syria he sent a hamster skeleton and skin to the Natural History Museum in London.

Almost all Syrian hamsters kept as pets today are descended from a group of hamsters which were sent to Britain and the USA in 1930 by Professor Aharoni of the University of Jerusalem and the first hamster club was set up in England in 1945.

Appearance of Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamster, SootySyrian hamsters have a broad head with large eyes and erect ears which makes them resemble to some extent a teddy bear, hence they are also sometimes referred to as teddy bear hamsters. They have stockily built, wide bodies and their best known characteristic is their cheek pouches, in which they collect their food. These extend for some way down the side of their bodies and it can be surprising how much material they can store in them.

The front feet have only four toes and the back feet have five. Syrian hamsters grow to an average of about 5-6 inches in length excluding their short tails, which are less than an inch long. They weigh about 150 grammes (5 ounces) on average and the females are typically slightly larger than the males. There are a number of different types of Syrian hamsters that have occured through mutations or selective breeding over the years. These vary mainly in colour, patterns and types of coat.

Behaviour of Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamsters live a solitary life and will only tolerate each only when they have to, such as to mate and to help with rearing the young. Young Syrian hamsters will get along fine for the first few weeks, but when they get to about 6 weeks they will start to fight very aggressively and have to be separated. It makes no difference if they are male or female, Syrian hamsters must be kept in separate cages. Syrian hamsters mark their territory with scent from glands located on their flanks and they have very poor eye sight and rely largely on smell to recognise things.

Syrian hamsters are nocturnal creatures that sleep for most of the day curled up in a nest that they will make from whatever materials are available. They become more active at dusk and dawn when they will come out in search of food. Food that they find will mainly be placed in their cheek pouches and taken back to their bedding area where it is stored for later. Dependent on conditions Syrian hamsters may hibernate, this is likely if average temperatures fall below 10oC (50oF) and virtually never occurs in hamsters living indoors with central heating.

Syrian hamster housing and bedding

Hamster cageSyrian hamsters can be kept in traditional wired cages or aquarium type cages. Wired cages have the advantages that they have bars which the hamsters like to climb and they are well ventilated although, this can lead to a mess around these cages. Aquarium type cages can be made of plastic or glass, these are tidier in use as material cannot spill out around them, however ventilation can be a problem and they can overheat in the summer.

Hamster bedding material can be hay, paper derived products or some types of dust free wood shaving, these should be used with care as allergies can occur and they can cause breathing difficulties. Syrian hamsters usually restrict their excretions to one place in their cage and with some training they can be encouraged to use small litter trays.

Care of Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamsters are self cleaning so they don’t need to be bathed, they will look after their own coats. Their claws can sometimes become too long and Syrian hamster, Troublemay need clipping. Their cages should be cleaned out about once per week, with the toilet corner being cleaned out almost daily. As hamsters store food, usually in their bedding area, this needs inspecting frequently for rotting food, particularly uneaten fresh vegetables.

Syrian hamsters need some exercise and a large enough wheel should be provided for them, otherwise they can get back problems. Some hamsters can become a bit obsessed with the wheel so you should monitor its use and if this is happening remove it from the cage at times. Syrian hamsters are very inquisitive and some interesting objects should be placed in their cage to let them explore and play and a stump of wood, twigs from fruit trees or interestingly shaped stones can keep them amused.

Handling Syrian hamsters

Syrian hamsters are easy to tame, rarely bite and will usually learn to enjoy being handled if you go about it gently and gradually. You should not wake a Syrian hamster, Sootysleeping hamster, if possible, but approach the hamster when it is well rested, awake and alert. You should approach the hamster at its eye level, not from above, and ideally wait for it to come to your hand. You can encourage this by using small snacks as treats.

When you do start to pick the hamster up you should cup your hands carefully around it and lift it gently and avoiding squeezing it tightly. The more time you spend handling your hamste the tamer it will get. Another benefit of Syrian hamsters is that once they are tamed they will remain that way for the rest of their lives, in contrast to most dwarf hamsters where maintenance regular handling is required. Although, you probably going to want to regularly handle your hamster anyway, so it's hardly a hardship is it?

Reproduction & breeding in Syrian hamsters

Female Syrian hamsters can reproduce from as early as 5 weeks old, but this is too young and can actually harm them, it is better not to let them breed until the female is about 4 months old. They can mate roughly every 4 days and you can tell when they are receptive by stroking their back and if she raises her tail, then she can be placed with a male that night. The male and female Syrian hamsters should be introduced cautiously, on neutral territory and with the female entering the area first.

The gestation period of the Syrian hamster is about 16 days and the young are born bald and blind. A mother and her young should be interrupted as little as possible or cannibalism can occur. The young can leave the nest at about 2 weeks old and they no longer require the mother hamster from about 4 weeks old. The life expectancy of a Syrian hamster is two to three years on average.

General information about Roborovski hamsters

Roborovski hamsters are small, short tailed dwarf hamsters. They might not be perfect as family pets as they aren't the kind of hamster you can hold and stroke, instead, they are hamsters to watch as they run on their wheel (at lightning fast speed) and play with siblings (they are social, so can live in pairs). Their's original habitat is in the Mongolian steppes.

Roborovski hamsters are particularly hard to tame because of their character, size and speed. It is recommended to buy Roborovski's in pairs, mainly as watching two play together is much more fun than just one. Some may be worried about the chances of the two fighting, but it is normally the case that severe wounds only come about in groups of three Robo's in the same cage. Normally,the hamsters will only 'play' or mock fight. They prefer to be kept in a well lit room at a constant temperature (18 to 26°C, 64 to 80°F) and though they cannot see very far, Robo's are generally more relaxed when positioned somewhat above the ground (at least 65 cm (2 feet), from where they can perceive their surroundings.


Feeding a Roborovski is no different from feeding any other kind of hamster, but there is a difference when putting your own touch outside of the Robo's regular diet. It is essential you don't feed the Robo too much fruit or vegetables at one time. Roborovski's are the only hamsters who are nearly completely vegetarian, although they are allowed some meats.

Note - It may seem like a little bit of fruit and veg to us, but to a tiny little Roborobski, it is a huge amount. This is why it is really important never to give the hamster too much fruit or veg as too much can very easily cause the Robo diarrhoea. If it unfortunaltely gets diarrhoea, some Raspberry leaves will help.
Hamster muesli

A Roboroski's main diet must consist of hamster 'muesli'. You can buy hamster muesli from a pet shop or even make your own, but this isn't recommended. A pet store bought bag of hamster muesli will consist of cereals, nuts and dried fruits. 'Premium' quality muesli will have some added banana flakes and/or brazil nuts along with some other types of nutritious cereals or nuts.

It is important you re-fill the Robo's dish every day (at roughly the same time) and clear out any food the Robo has stored in its sleeping area. If two Roborovski's are sharing the same bowl, fill it to about 2/3 full or just 1/3 for a single Robo.

Apple (seedless)
Grapes (seedless)
Peaches (no stone)
Plums (no pits)
Raspberry Leaves (helpful for diarrhea)


Bean Sprouts
Bok Choy
Cabbage (Limited amounts)
Corn on the Cob
Dandelion Leaves
Green Beans
Romaine Lettuce
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet bell Peppers
Swiss Chard
Water Chestnuts
Water Cress

Meat and Protein foods

Cooked Ground Beef (Rinse well in hot water to remove any grease)
Cooked Chicken or Turkey (Steamed or baked)
Low Fat Cottage Cheese
Fish Cod (Cooked removing bones and skin)
Grasshoppers (Pet Shop)
Mealworms (Pet Shop)
Crickets (Pet Shop)
Bread(whole grain no white bread) soaked in milk ( Low Fat, Skim, Soy)
Eggs ( boiled or scrambled)
Plain Tofu
Plain Low Fat Yogurt
Dog Biscuits (No Garlic, onion, or onion powder)
Monkey Chow
Lab Blocks

Other foods

Baby Food(low sugar and no onion or garlic)
Cheese (mild cheeses in moderation)
Cooked Plain Brown Rice
Cooked Pasta(Wheat or Spinach would be better)
Dry toast(Also helpful for diarrhea
Flax seed
Low or Sugarless Cereals
Pumpkin Seeds (unsalted)
Nuts (No almonds)
Sesame Seeds
Soybeans(Roasted no salt)
Squash seeds
Oatmeal(dry or soaked in skim, soy or lowfat milk)
Nutritional Yeast
Bran and Wheat Germ (Refrigerated goes bad fast)
Peanuts (unsalted)
Unsalted Popcorn (no butter)

Foods to avoid

Almonds (Contains Cyanic Acid)
Apple Seeds
Canned food
Chips and Junk food
Pork Products
Potatoes (Raw)
Raw Kidney Beans
Fool's Parsley
Grape Seeds
Avocado (Contains Cardiac Glycosides)
Raw Rhubarb
Tomato leaves
Oranges or Tangerines(no citrus fruits)
No watermelon (the water content is high causes diarrhea)
Cherry Stone
Peach Stone & Leaves
Apricot Stone
Lemon or Lime
Jams and jellies

And any other food that has not been mentioned above this content box.

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