Sabtu, 29 Januari 2011

Breeding Rabbits

  • A female rabbit is called a doe. A male rabbit is called a buck.
  • When referring to the parents of a rabbit, the mother is called the dam, and the father is called the sire.
  • When you mate two rabbits together, this is called breeding.
  • When you check to see if the doe is pregnant or when you breed her again before she is due to give birth, this is called testing.
  • When you put a box in the hutch that is lined with hay, this is called nesting.
  • When the doe gives birth, this is called kindling.
  • The period of time between breeding and kindling is called the gestation period.
  • She gives birth to a bunch of bunnies called kits. This bunch of bunnies is called a litter.
  • When you take the young rabbits away from the mother, this is called weaning.

      A small breed doe is normally ready to mate when she is 5 months old, and a buck is ready at 6 months. The medium size doe is ready to breed when she is 6 months old and the buck at 7 months. The heavy breed doe is ready at 8 months and the buck is ready at 9 months.

      It's usually a good idea to select rabbits to breed whose ancestry has evidence of good productivity and good genetics. That's where productivity records and pedigrees listing show winnings come in handy. Keep productivity and show records of your herd just for this purpose.

      You may keep a ratio of one buck to 10 does if you wish. The buck may be bred up to 7 times a week effectively. Sometimes, you can use the buck twice in one day. The most I use a buck is twice a week.

      Keep the following principles in mind when you want to breed your rabbits:

  • Only mate rabbits of the same breed. See Rabbit Raising - The Basics. Exceptions to this include breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation. You cannot sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood in its background going back 4 generations.
  • Do not keep more than one rabbit in each cage when the rabbit is 3 months or older. Rabbits mature faster when alone, do not fight, and do not breed, thus eliminating unexpected results.
  • Before breeding, check the bottom of the cage of both the doe and buck for evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Do not breed the rabbit having this condition until it has been adequately treated. Also check the genitals of both rabbits for any signs of disease or infection (for example, extreme redness, discharge, sores or scabbiness). Refer to the ARBA Official Guidebook section on diseases.
  • When ready to breed the doe, take it to the buck's cage. Never bring the buck to the doe's cage. The reason for this is that the buck has less tendency to breed in the doe's cage. He's too busy sniffing around the cage.
  • Some leave the doe with the buck overnight. Others put the doe in, watch it, and when they have mated, remove the doe. If you do the latter, put the doe back in with the buck 1 to 12 hours after the initial breeding. This will increase the likelihood of pregnancy and may increase the number of offspring.
  • Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. You should test her for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. There are two ways to do this. The overall preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. The other method is not only more risky but also more inaccurate. This method is to mate the doe with the buck again. This can cause problems because the doe has two uterine horns, each of which can carry babies. It is possible for one horn to be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uteri to not form right, causing her to pass blobs instead of babies at the date of kindling. There is also a chance these "mummified" blobs could cause complications leading to the death of the doe.
  • You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter.
Who Can Be Bred To Whom?

     Never breed brothers to sisters. Other combinations are fine: father-to-daughter, mother-to-son, cousins, etc. Until you gain some knowledge as to how genetics works with inbreeding, I would recommend your not breeding closely related pairs.

     As mentioned before, mate the same breeds together unless you are trying to get meat rabbits with certain characteristics or you are doing genetic experiments or you don't care about the fate of the offspring. You cannot sell the offspring as pedigree if their ancestry is not of the same breed going back four generations.

     You may mate rabbits of the same breed having different colors. Keep in mind, though, that there are many combinations of possibilities when mixing colors. Some of the offspring may have colors that are not recognized by ARBA. It is usually best to mate rabbits having the same color to start off with until you know more about how the colors interact. See the section on genetics for more information on colors. Also, join the national specialty group for the breed you are interested in raising. They usually have literature on how to develop the best color, size, and shape of your rabbit.

     Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects such as tooth malocclusion (wolf teeth) or moon eye (cloudy cornea), or produces offspring whose skull does not come together (except in dwarfs, where approximately 25% are born too small with deformed head or legs - the offspring are called peanuts). Determine whether the sire or dam is responsible for passing the genetic defect and eliminate it for breeding purposes.

     Strive to meet the perfect standard for the breed you are mating. Order the ARBA Standard of Perfection Booklet to know exactly what is expected of the breed. Also, join the national association for that breed to get their manual on the breed. Check out the ARBA web page for a list of associations. This will show you how to improve your herd.

Evaluating A Rabbit's Reproductive Life

       A rabbit may normally start breeding at the age of 6 months for the small to medium size breeds and 8 to 9 months for the heavy breeds. The gestation period (time between breeding and kindling) is 31 days. After the doe has kindled, I normally re-breed her at 6 weeks and wean the litter at 5-7 weeks. This cycle continues until she is about 4 years old or until her production is unsatisfactory.

       I review the herd records every quarter to determine which rabbits are not producing up to par and eliminate them. In October through December, some rabbits go into what is called moulting. At this period, many do not conceive. If you have lights on all the time in your rabbitry, this will help. Rabbits are like chickens that lay eggs only if there is enough light. Raising most of my rabbits outside, I take this problem into consideration when evaluating them. Also, if it gets too hot in the summer, especially for those who live in the Southern U.S., the buck produces less viable sperm and the conception rate goes down. Some people keep their bucks air conditioned to keep the conception rate high.

       My minimum standard for a doe is that she produce at least the following number of rabbits per year all the way to weaning:
  • Dwarfs: 8
  • Small Breeds: 14
  • Medium Breeds: 16
  • Meat Type: 20
  • Giants: 16

Jumaat, 28 Januari 2011

Year of The Rabbit

People born in the Year of the Rabbit are articulate, talented, and ambitious. They are virtuous, reserved, and have excellent taste. Rabbit people are admired, trusted, and are often financially lucky. They are fond of gossip but are tactful and generally kind. Rabbit people seldom lose their temper. They are clever at business and being conscientious, never back out of a contract. They would make good gamblers for they have the uncanny gift of choosing the right thing. However, they seldom gamble, as they are conservative and wise. They are most compatible with those born in the years of the Sheep, Pig, and Dog..

Rabbit Diet

Arnab boleh pilih ketika datang untuk makan, tetapi penting untuk memberi mereka makan makanan arnab direka khusus untuk mereka. Memberikan mereka makanan yang direka untuk orang-orang boleh menyebabkan perut masalah, dan dalam kes yang melampau, kematian. Dikatakan bahawa arnab akan memakan apa saja yang anda berikan kepada mereka, tetapi itu tidak bermakna bahawa mereka harus makan apa diletakkan di depan mereka. Kebanyakan arnab akan cuba sesuatu, dan kemudian menemukan sendiri bahawa itu adalah buruk bagi mereka. Seorang pemilik yang baik tidak akan percubaan pada arnab mereka, melainkan mereka akan mengetahui terlebih dahulu apa diet arnab yang baik dan memberikan mereka makanan untuk haiwan kesayangan mereka.

Diet Arnab
  • Jangan membeli makanan lebih kering dari haiwan kesayangan anda akan makan dalam 12 minggu. Jaga makanan dalam bekas kedap udara untuk tetap segar dan selera.
  • Arnab lebih suka pelet timothy, walaupun mereka akan makan pelet alfalfa. Anda dapat mencari pelet timothy dijual secara berasingan di banyak kedai makanan haiwan.
  • Apakah timothy hay, oat jerami atau rumput lain (semanggi, Trefoil) yang terdapat di setiap saat untuk arnab anda. Anda boleh membeli ini dari seorang petani tempatan atau dalam beg kecil yang dijual di kedai-kedai haiwan peliharaan.
  • 2 cawan sayur-sayuran segar pada hari.
  • 2 sudu buah pada hari.
Sayuran Untuk Arnab
Arnab cinta sayuran segar, tetapi beberapa lebih dari yang lain. Sayuran umumnya ditemui di diet arnab meliputi :
  • Basil
  • Beet greens
  • Bok choy
  • Boston lettuce
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Carrots
  • Carrot tops
  • Collard greens
  • Celery
  • Cilantro
  • Clover
  • Collard greens
  • Dandelion greens and flowers
  • Endive
  • Escarole
  • Green peppers
  • Kale
  • Mint and peppermint leaves
  • Mustard greens
  • Parsley
  • Sweet snap pea pods
  • Radicchio
  • Radish tops
  • Raspberry leaves
  • Romaine lettuce
  • Spinach
  • Sprouts - alfalfa, clover, radish (no bean!)
  • Wheat grass
Elakkan kacang-kacangan, Rhubarb dan Burdock daun (umum luar bilik ditemui di kawasan luar bandar) kerana mereka boleh menyebabkan gangguan pencernaan. Cuci daun dan sayuran untuk menghilangkan racun perosak jika perlu.

Buah Untuk Arnab
Buah harus diberikan untuk arnab anda sebagai hadiah, bukan sebagai bahagian utama dari pola makan arnab, jika tidak, anda mungkin berakhir dengan kelinci arnab.Buah-buahan yang kelinci anda dapat menikmati meliputi :

  • Craisins
  • Raisins
  • Bananas
  • Cored apples (seeds are toxic)
  • Blueberries
  • Seedless grapes
  • Melon 
  • Peeled oranges, remove seeds if necessary 
  • Papayas, remove pit
  • Peaches, remove pit 
  • Pears
  • Peeled pineapple
  • Plums, remove pit
  • Raspberries 
  • Strawberries

Rabbit Diet Do's and Don'ts
  1. Never feed your rabbit chocolate.
  2. Avoid feeding your rabbit processed, frozen, or canned foods unless prescribed by a vet.

Amaran !!!!
Jika arnab anda berhenti makan atau minum, dan ini berlangsung selama lebih dari 6 jam, sesuatu yang mungkin akan serius salah. Carilah nasihat dari doktor haiwan.Arnab dengan obstruksi usus bisa mati dalam hitungan jam jika tidak dirawat...

Hay untuk Arnab anda.


Anda mungkin pernah membaca di banyak tempat bahawa sangat penting bahawa arnab mendapatkan banyak jerami, tetapi adakah anda tahu bahawa tidak semua jenis jerami adalah sama? Jenis pakan jerami anda, arnab anda akan mempunyai kesan besar pada kesehatan , kerana beberapa jerami lebih berkhasiat daripada yang lain, dan beberapa jenis jerami mengandungi bahan-bahan yang boleh membuat arnab anda lemak dan sakit jika mereka makan terlalu banyak.
Mari kita belajar tentang pelbagai jenis rumput kering sehingga arnab anda dapat menjadi arnab sihat dapat!
Ada dua jenis utama jerami, Rumput Hay, dan Leguminosa Hay, Rumput jerami adalah jenis terbaik daripada jerami untuk arnab anda kerana mengandungi banyak nutrisi, tetapi tidak banyak tenaga. Bunnies boleh mendapatkan lemak yang sangat mudah, dan lemak arnab arnab sakit, sehingga pemilik perlu memastikan bahawa arnab tidak mendapat 'makanan buruk' terlalu banyak dalam diet mereka. Yang lucu adalah 'makanan buruk' yang untuk arnab sebenarnya cukup sihat bagi manusia, sehingga sangat mudah untuk berfikir bahawa anda memberi makanan kelinci yang baik padahal sebenarnya anda memberikan sama arnab dari makan McDonald's.
makanan arnab Buruk merangkumi hal-hal seperti biji-bijian, buah-buahan kering, gandum, bijirin, roti, dan biji-bijian. Ada begitu banyak hal baik untuk memberi makan arnab bahawa Anda tidak perlu merasa perlu untuk memberinya makan hal-hal ini, dan anda harus berhati-hati jika anda makan pelet kelinci untuk membeli pelet yang tidak mengandungi bahan ini. Tetapi pada dengan jerami!
Rumput jerami termasuk jerami seperti Timothy Hay, Hay Meadow, dan Bermuda Rumput. Timothy hay biasanya cukup mudah dibeli di Amerika Syarikat, tapi pastikan anda mencari pembekal yang baik yang menjual anda segar, jerami bersih.
Legum Hays termasuk jerami alfalfa, jerami semanggi, buncis, kacang polong, dan kacang tanah. kelinci anda akan menemui yummy super jerami, tetapi mereka tidak sangat baik untuk itu kerana ia mengandungi begitu banyak tenaga. Arnab rumah rata-rata tidak akan dapat membakar seluruh tenaga yang mereka dapatkan dari jerami, dan mereka akan menjadi sangat gemuk memang.
Jika anda boleh, pastikan bahawa arnab anda mempunyai akses kepada semua jerami rumput yang ingin makan. hay rumput Makan tidak hanya baik untuk kesihatan fizikal arnab, itu juga membantu kesihatan mental arnab dengan memberikan sesuatu untuk dilakukan. Mengunyah sangat menenangkan untuk arnab, dan arnab yang paling cinta tidak lebih dari untuk duduk dan mengunyah jauh di jerami mereka. Hal ini mengunyah juga membantu canai gigi mereka, yang terus tumbuh dan berkembang, dan boleh menyakitkan lama jika tidak tanah turun banyak mengunyah.

Ahad, 9 Januari 2011

Handling Your Rabbit.

Holding a rabbitThe first and most important rule of picking up a rabbit is to never pick him/her up by the ears, the scruff, legs or tail. It is painful and can cause serious damage. You wouldn't want to be lifted by your ears, would you?
The second rule to remember is that rabbits are fragile. They are quick indeed, but have weak skeletal systems.
Thirdly, rabbits do not always enjoy being picked up. Some of them will tolerate it, but many will struggle when you try to lift them. Therefore, picking them up can be a delicate business.
Sometimes it is necessary to pick up your rabbit, however, such as for nail clippingor vet checks. So here are some useful tips.
  • Approach your rabbit slowly and get down to his/her level. It will help put your bun at ease. Petting the rabbit will also have a calming effect.
  • When you feel confident your rabbit is ready to be picked up, scoop him/her up by placing a hand under the torso and pull your bunny close to your body.
  • Support the rabbit's hindquarters. Your bunny needs to feel secure in your arms.
  • If your rabbit struggles when being picked up, hold him/her firmly, but be ready to put him/her down. Your rabbit may think the better alternative to being held is to leap from your arms, but this can cause serious injury.
  • When putting your rabbit down, slowly squat down while holding your bunny close, and let him/her down gently.
Your rabbit may respond with a thump or may kick up his/her hind legs at you while scampering away. It's nothing personal, he/she just disapproves of being picked up.

Litter Box Train for your Rabbit.

Bunny about to go in the litterbox

One thing a lot of people don't realize is that most rabbits can be litter box trained, just like a cat!
Basically, what you want to do is take advantage of your bunny's natural tendency to deposit their droppings in just one or two places.
  • Start off by confining your bunny in just one room (even if you intend to give him the run of the whole house). A tiled floor is best to start (maybe in your kitchen)
  • Make sure that the litter tray is easily accessible on at least one side, but with high enough sides all around to prevent spillage.
  • For the litter itself, avoid clay and clumping brands (very toxic), as well as pine and cedar scented ones (proven dangerous in many studies). Personally I've always liked 'Yesterday's News' brand for it's absorbancy and ease of cleaning... but Cell Sorb, and Gentle Touch are also good.
  • A standard cat litter box works pretty well,... you might want a covered one if your bunny likes to push the litter out (rascals!)
  • Confinement and supervision is critical for the early stages. (It's much kinder to go through this for a few weeks early on in a bunny's life so that it can have a life time of roaming about and interacting with the family). So you should start in one room, and confine your bunny to its cage (with the litter box) for a bit until you learn where (s)he likes to do the business. If it's in the litter box - great! If not, no worries, just move the box over that way.
  • After you've achieved success IN the cage, it's time to provide freedom. The key here is to do it only a little at a time, step by step (and be willing to go back a step if bunny makes a mistake).
  • So give bunny a limited area of freedom in the room, and make sure (s)he knows where the litter box is. (Spend some time getting bunny to come to the box with treats and praise).
  • Watch for signs that 'the business' is going to happen soon, get bunny to the box when it's going to happen, and give ample praise and treats when it does.
  • Just like you did in the cage, if bunny is making mistakes,... think of it as his or her way of telling you "the box belongs over here,... not where you put it"... and just move the box for bunny.
  • Sometimes you actually need to have two or three litter boxes in a larger space for a while... then you remove one at a time
  • Bunny in the litterbox
  • Punishment is NOT a good idea for mistakes with rabbits. It's better to simply withold the rewards and treats and praise until you get the behavior you want. (And use a lot of patience)
  • Some people have trouble because they're not really sure how to know when their bunny is about to go. Establishing regular feeding times, and other routines will help with this problem. (Mostly though, you'll get used to your bunny's signs if you pay attention for a few weeks)
  • Once your bunny is using the litter boxes outside of the cage, the idea is to slowly expand their allowed roaming area, until you can confidently see your bunny anywhere in the house without worrying about 'little presents' (and smells).
Please note that litter training is almost never perfect... there are usually a few pellets left near the box which can be easily wiped away. (Bunnies aren't perfect... and neither are we, right?)

What to Feed Pet Bunnies?

Just like people, bunnies enjoy a good meal. A nice mix of hay, pellets and fresh vegetables as well as fresh water will make your rabbit healthy and happy. An occasional treat can be given, but only in small quantities.


Fresh hay should make up the bulk of your rabbit's diet and needs to be readily available at all times. Adult rabbits can eat timothy, grass, and oat hays, while younger rabbits should be fed alfalfa. Alfalfa should not be given to adult rabbits because of the higher protein and sugar content. Hay is important for rabbits because it provides the essential fiber needed for good digestive health and it helps wear down a rabbit's teeth (which continuously grow) for good dental health. Placing hay at one end of a litter box will also encourage the use of the litter box, as rabbits tend to eat hay and poop at the same time.
When choosing hay, make sure it looks and smells fresh. Do not choose a hay that looks brown or moldy or no longer smells like fresh cut grass. Store hay in a dry place in a container that allows air flow to keep it from getting moldy. Buying hay in bulk from a local farmer tends to be much more economical than buying bags from a pet store.


A varied assortment of vegetables should be a part of your rabbit's daily diet. When choosing vegetables look for something fresh and free of pesticides. Always wash your vegetables thoroughly before feeding them to your rabbit. Feed new vegetables in small quantities until you can judge if your rabbit reacts well to them. Do not feed rabbits the leaves from houseplants as many are poisonous to rabbits. For a full list of poisonous plants, visit the Sacramento House Rabbit Society's pageon the subject.
Your rabbit may enjoy some of the following vegetables:
    Fresh romaine lettuce
  • Basil
  • Bok choy
  • Broccoli leaves (stems or tops can make rabbits gassy)
  • Carrot tops (carrots are high in calcium and should be given sparingly)
  • Celery
  • Cilantro
  • Clover
  • Collard greens
  • Dandelion leaves
  • Dill
  • Kale (sparingly)
  • Lettuce - romaine or dark leaf (no iceburg lettuce and no cabbage)
  • Mint
  • Mustard greens
  • Parsley
  • Water cress


Fresh water must always be available to your rabbit. If you have a cage, a hanging water bottle is a fine option. Rabbits will also drink from a water bowl. On a hot day you can drop an ice cube or two in your rabbits water dish. If your rabbit does not seem to be drinking enough water you can leave the vegetables fairly wet when you present them.


These should be purchased so that they are fresh, as bunnies will turn their noses up at stale pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber and low in protein. You will need to limit your rabbit's pellet intake as he/she ages. Pellets that are high in protein can lead to obesity and other health issues in rabbits.


Everybody loves a treat now and then, but to ensure your rabbits health they should be given only occasionally. Do not feed your rabbit items high in carbohydrates like breads, crackers, pasta, pretzels, cookies, chips, or cereal. Although branded for rabbits, many commercially-sold bunny treats are high in fat and sugar, such as yogurt chips, and should not be given. Never give chocolate as it is toxic to rabbits.
Fruit is the best option for a treat, but again you should give it only in small amounts because of the sugar content. We try to purchase organic fruits that we know are free of pesticides. Like vegetables, be sure that they are thoroughly washed.
Some fruits that rabbits enjoy include:
  • Strawberries
  • Raspberries
  • Bananas
  • Pineapple
  • Apples (no seeds)
from MyHouseRabbit.com

Penyakit Arnab

Penyakit arnab boleh disebab oleh beberapa punca antaranya adalah akibat dari jangkitan virus, bakteria dan parasit.

Jangkitan Virus
  • Infectious myxomatosis
  • Shope fibroma
  • Papillomatosis
  • Rabbitpox

Jangkitan Bakteria
  • Pasteurellosis
  • Yersiniosis
  • Listeriosis
  • Staphylococcosis
  • Mastitis
  • Pneumonia
  • Enterotoxaemia
  • Mucoid enteropathy
  • Tyzzer’s disease
  • Salmonellosis
  • Conjunctivitis

Jangkitan Parasit
  • Dermatophytosis
  • Coccidiosis
  • Tapeworm infection
  • Mite infestation
Penyakit Bukan Infeksi
  • Moist dermatitis
  • Cannibalism
  • Hair chewing/hairballs
  • Heat exhaustion
  • Broken back
  • Pregnancy toxaemia
  • Dystocia
  • Ulcerative pododermatitis
  • Dental malocclusion
  • Hydrocephalus
Artikel J.Perkhidmatan Vet. Negeri Pulau Pinang..

Untuk panduan umum, langkah-langkah kawalan penyakit yang minimum adalah seperti berikut:

1.       Sekitar kawasan hendaklah bersih
2.       Hadkan pegerakan pekerja dan kurangkan pelawat masuk
3.       Langkah kebersihan hendaklah diamalkan semasa menyentuh setiap arnab
4.       Lakukan rawatan seberapa yang boleh. Kalau tidak berjaya bolehlah ditakal (terutama kalau bilangan arnab banyak) dan cara ini telah diamalkan dikebanyakan negara lain.
5.       Tanamkan arnab yang mat! dalam lubang yang jauh dari reban jika tidak/selepas post mortem).
6.       Dapatkan stok arnab dari ladang arnab yang mempunyai mutu kesihatan yang tinggi.
7.       Jika berlaku kematian yang mengejut dan melibatkan bilangan arnab yang banyak, lapor dengan segera kepada Pejabat Jabatan Perkhidmatan Haiwan yang berhampiran.

Menjual makanan Rabbit disekitar Saujana Utama

Assalamuailaikum dan Selamat Sejahtera,

Kami mengedar dan menjual makanan arnab dari jenama Bengy (no kod6088),Pellet jenis ini baik untuk arnab dan guinea pig kerana kandungan nutrisi didalam makanan dijelaskan di belakang pek, sesetengah pellet arnab yang lain tidak menjelaskan isi kandungan nutrisinya.
Dibawah ialah kandungan Nutrisi yg terdapat didalam pellet:-
Crude Protein (min).....15%
Crude Fat (Min).........3 %
Crude Fibre (Max).......15%
Moistre (Max)...........13%

Harga :

1Kg = RM 4.00
2Kg = RM 6.00

free delivery in Saujana Utama ,Sg Buloh only..
Kami menyediakan perkhidmatn ini kerana ingin memudahkan di kawasan saujana utama untuk mendapat pellet untuk arnab peliharaan mereka supaya sihat sentiasa..

Renung-renung kan dan selamat beramal...

Arnab sihat,Tuannye tidaklah risau...

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Sabtu, 8 Januari 2011

Baka-Baka Arnab

Vienna white
Negara asal: Austria. Tegap. Berat 8-12 lbs. 2 warna - Biru Vienna dengan warna gelap biru di bahagian atas, &  cerah di bahagian bawah cerahr & putih Vienna.

Negara asal: Beveren, Belgium. Pengeluar daging dan bulu. Salah satu arnab besar yang mengeluarkan bulu. Berwarna cerah biru "lavender", putih, berkilat, hitam dengan biru gelap sebagai latarbelakang, perang & ungu lembut. Ada juga jenis yang jarang didapati yang dipanggil  Pointed Beveren warna sama tapi warna puith dihujung bulu. Ciri yang ketara untuk bulu warna putih ialah mata birunya.  Badan jenis "Mandolin " .  Haiwan kesayangan yang paling sesuai untuk kanak-kanak kecil. Anggaran berat 8-12 lbs.

Negara asal: Derbyshire, England. Kacukan arnab liar Dutch. Ada bahagian badan yang berwarna keemasan perang dan bahagian lain berwarna hitam, biru, coklat atau ungu lembut. Berat 4-6 lbs. Haiwan kesayangan yang baik.  

Silver Fox
Negara asal: Ohio. Hitam berkilat dengan warna perak. Baka daging yang diminati. Peratus daging yang tinggi selepas diproses. Salah satu baka yang popular dengan bulunya. Luarbiasa panjang, lebat dan warna perak yang serata. Bulu lebih panjang jika dibandingkan dengan bulu baka arnab komersial yang biasa; bulu yang lebih halus. Berat 9 -12 lbs. Lemah lembut. Baka yang mudah dipelihara. Ibu yang cemerlang. Boleh sesuaikan diri dengan semua cuaca. 

Silver Marten
Dikenali sebagai "Silver Fox" di England. (tidak sama dengan "Silver Fox" di America) Hitam, biru, cokelat, sabel dengan hujung warna perak dari perut hingga ke tepi dan punggung kecuali bahagian belakang. Berat 6-9 1/2 lbs.  

American Chinchilla
Negara asal: France. Baka yang mempunyai bulu yang terbaik . Lebat dan halus 1 1/4 " panjang . Licin dan berkilat. Bulu di bahagian bawah selalunya biru, bahagian tengah kelabu mutiara, menjurus ke warna putih dan hujung berwarna hitam. Bulu panjang dan hitam. Berbadan bulat. Juga dikenali sebagai "Heavyweight Chinchilla". Berat 9-12 lbs.  Berat Chinchilla gergasi ialah 12-16 lbs, manakala berat Chinchilla yang standard ialah 5-7 1/2 lbs. Haiwan kesayangan yang baik. 

English Spot
Pada asalnya ianya mirip kepada Checkered Giant. White rabbit yang mempunyai hidung rama-rama yang berwarna, tanda berantai, pipi bertompok, telinga berwarna & jaluran "herringbone" biru, "tortoiseshell" berwarna hitam, keemasan, ungu lembut, kelabu atau cokelat. Juga dipanggil "Lapin Papillon Angalias" di Perancis atau arnab rama-rama Inggeris kerana hidungnya berbentuk rama-rama . Berbadan panjang dan melengkung. Cepat membesar, dan pengeluaran daging selepas diproses tinggi pada peringkat yang muda. Berat 5-8 lbs.

2 jenis: "Marten sable" dengan warna  putih di bahagian bawah atau "Siamese sable" yang tidak mempunyai warna putih di bahagian bawah. Berbulu sutera yang lebatr. Sangat tenang.

American Sable
Kacukan Chinchilla. Berwarna cokelat  "sepia" yang pekat di kepala, telinga, belakang, kaki & bahagian atas ekor. Berbulu lembut, lebat, halus dengan bulu bahagian luar yang kasar. Berat 7-10 lbs.

Negara asal: Germany. Arnab pedaging dengan bulu yang lebat dan seperti sutera. Bertanda putih dengan hitam & jingga keemasan terang  (6-8 tanda bulat di kedua-dua belah badan , dan juga tanda di tulang belakang, bertanda seperti rama-rama di hidung, bulatan di mata, telinga berwarna dan tompok bulat di pipi). Berat 6 1/2-10 lbs.

Castor Rex

  Mini Rex

 Seal Point Rex
Negara asal: France. Berwana hitam, biru, "broken group, californian", "castor, chinchilla", cokelat, himalayan, ungu lembut, "lynx", "opal", merah, "sable", "seal tortoise" & putih. Terlalu lebat, bulu lurus 5/8" . Lemah lembut dan semulajadinya baik. Haiwan kesayangan yang baik. Selalunya berat diantara 7 1/2-10 1/2 lbs. Berat "mini rex" 3-4 1/2 lbs.

Britannia Petite
Negara asal: Britain. Baka yang paling biasa ialah berwarna putih dan bermata merah. Pembawaan yang buruk. Tidak sesuai dijadikan haiwan kesayangan. Mempunyai mata yang berwarna biru dan merah. Bulu yang pendik dan halus. "Fly back coat". Berat < 3 1/2 lbs. Berwarna putih, hitam "otter", hitam, biru, cokelat, "chestnut agouti", "sable marten".Bulu yang licin berkilat dan seperti sutera. Di USA, dikenali sebagai "Britannia Petite".

Negara asal: Washington. Warna keemasan, "lynx" c.Berat 8-11 lbs.   

Negara asal: Indiana, USA. Nama diperolehi  dari ciri-ciri bulunya yang sangat berkilat. Bulu seperti sutera , halus, lebat dan tebal. Berwarna putih kuning, hitam, biru, pecahan, "californian", "chinchilla", cokelat, tembaga, merah, siamese & putih. Berat 8 1/2-11 lbs. 

New Zealand
Negara asal: America. Warna putih, hitam & biru.Bulu berwarna merah keemasan terang lebih kasar jika dibandingkan dengan warna lain. Berbadan panjang dan berotot. Berat 9-12 lbs.

Netherland Dwarf
Negara asal: Netherlands. Kacukan diantara Polish & arnab liar yang kecil.  Pelbagai warna dan corak. "Self", bayangan, "agouti", corak "tan", "fawn", "himalayan", jingga, "steel", "tortoiseshell". Bulu pendik dan padat. Telinga berbulu, tegang dan nampak pendik jika dibandingkan dengan kepala. Bulu warna hitam semulajadi. Berat < 2 1/2 lbs. Suka mengigit; tidak sesuai untuk keluarga yang mempunyai anak-anak kecil.

Kacukan Havana . Mempunyai bidang badan yang kecil tetapi mempunyai daging yang banyak. Daging selepas proses masih tinggi. Mempunyai bulu yang lebat dan seperti sutera dan berwarna merah jambu "dove shade" di seluruh badan. Berat  5 1/2-8 lbs.  

Magpie Harlequin

Japanese Harlequin
Negara asal: France. Kepala berwarna hitam, Telinga, kaki dan badan berwarna biru, cokelat, ungu lembut. Badan berbelang dengan warna-warna ini dan berselang dengan warna jingga keemasan untuk Japanese dan putih bagi Magpie. Kepala terbahagi dua dengan setiap bahagian berselang warna dan warna telinga berlawan dengan warna kepala. Berat 6 1/2- 9 1/2 lbs.

Jersey Wooly
Negara asal: New Jersey. Arnab yang kecil yang mempunyai gene kerdil. Badan pendik, padat dan bulat. Berbulu panjang, lebat dan gebu. Panjang yang ideal  2-3". Berbagai warna. Berat < 3 1/2 lbs

Negara asal: Peranchis. Mata putih dengan cecincin hitam. Berbadan pendik, padat dan bulat. Badan sekata lebar dari bahu hingga ke pinggang. Kepala besar dengan tengkorak dan muncung yang lebar, Telinga pendik dan berbulus. Berat standard 8-11 lbs; berat yang kerdil < 3 lbs. Gambar menunjukkan jenis kerdil Hotot

Holland Lop

English Lop

French Lop

Kacukan diantara Dwarf
-French Lop x English Lop. Berbulu pendik, Berotot berat.
Berat < 4 lbs.
Kaki pendik, tebal, lurus dan tulang berat jika dibandingkan dengan saiznya. Baka yang terbaik
Paling popular.
Badan "Mandolin type" .
Telinga sangat panjang dan " lop".
Panjang minima 21"
 dan lebar  1/4 dari panjangnya.
Terlampau pandai berkawan.
Berat > 9lbs
Kacukan antara English Lop & Flemish Giants. Berbadan berat. Besar dan nampak tebal. Telinga berbentuk "hand horse-shoe"; dan panjang sehingga kira-kira 1-1 1/2" dibawah rahang bawah. Berat >10 lbs.

Seal Point Cashmere Lop

Smoke Pearl Cashmere Lop

Red-eye White Cashmere Lop

Black Cashmere Lop

American Fuzzy Lop
Juga dikenali sebagai Cashmere Lop (gambar atas). Kacukan antara  Holland Lop & Angora. 19 warna bulu - biru, "chestnut", "chinchilla", "lynx", opal, squirrel, pointed white, blue-eyed white, coklat, ungu lembut, "ruby-eyed white", "sable point", "siamese sable", siamese smoke pearl, tortoise shell (hitam & biru), "fawn", hitan dan jingga. Berbadan pendik, berotot padat. Berwajah bulat spserti bola dan muka yang rata. Tiada tengkuk. Berbulu lebat , halus dan panjang 1-2". Telinga tergantung lurus ke bawah, sehingga 1/2-1" dibawah tulang rahang. Berat  3 1/2-4 lbs. 

Pembawaan yang jinak. Haiwan kesayangan yang terbaik. Berwarna cokelat, hitam, biru & ungu lembut di telinga, hidung, ekorl, & kaki. Mata berwarna merah batu delima. Bulu pendik putih dan licin berkilat. Badan panjang dan berbentuk silinder. Berat 2 1/2-4 1/2 lbs.

Negara asal: Holland. Warna bulu hitam, biru atau cokelat pekat. Bulu lembut, lebat & menarik dan tidah sederhana panjang. Mata merah delima. Badan bulat dan padat. Jenis pedaging. Haiwan kesayangan yang baik.  Berat  4.5-6.5 lbs.  

AngoraNegara asal: Ankara, Turkey.
4 jenis. English, French, Satin & Giant.
Baka tulin Giant Angora berwarna putih. Mata merah delima. Serba boleh. Berat  > 9 1/2 lbs
dengan bulu yang lembut, halus, "Guard hairs" yang tegang dan lurus dengan fluff yang berketak dengan "guard tip" di celah-celah

Satin AngoraSalah satu baka yang paling cantik tetapi kurang popular diantara Baka Angora . Pengeluar bulu seperti sutera dan berkilat. Berat 6 1/2- 9 1/2 lbs.

French AngoraBesar sedikit,dengan badan yang panjang dan kecil jika dibandingkan dengan English angora. Pengelur bulu yang baik, tetapi kasar .
Telinga mempunyai jambak  bulu.Berbagai warna termasuk putih padat dan bercorak. Berat 7 1/2-10 1/2 lbs.

English AngoraPaling comel dan paling popular. Mempesonakan . badut di dalam kumpulannya. Muka dan telinga gebu dan ceria & ini membuat ia seperti "stuffed animals." Berbadan padat, "cobby" dan ini membuat ia serupa bola berbulu. Berbulu panjang & seperti suterar. mata merah pekat  delima . Lemah lembut. Terlalu bersifat ingin tahu dan pandai berkawan dengan manusia. Arnab rumah yang terbaik. Terkecil dari jenis Angora. Berat 5-8 lbs.

Florida White
Negara asal: Florida. Kacukan antara Dutch, Polish & New Zealand White. Warna putih tulin. Agak pendik, berbadan bulat. Berat 4-6 lbs.

Flemish Giant
Negara asal: Flanders. Berwarna hitam, "blue, fawn", kelabu cerah, kelabu "sandy", kelabu "dark steel", putih. Berbadan panjang. Rangka berat. Berat  13-14 lbs & lebih

Negara asal: Holland. Arnab yang bergaya. Warna: hitam, biru, "torte" & cokelat, kuning, kelabu "steel", kelabu perang & kelabu mutiara. Tanda putih yang jelas dan ketara; dada, kaki depan, "blaze" (warna putih di hidung dan  misai dan bersambung hingga ke tulang rahang) & tapak kaki berwarna putih. Boleh dijadikan haiwan kesayangan yang terbaik. Berat  3 1/2-5 1/2 lbs. Walaupun bersaiz kecil tetapi banyak daging susuk badan padat. Kehilangan sikit daging selepas proses.

Negara asal: Montana. Kacukan antara New Zealand White-Chinchilla x Checkered Giant-Californian.  Warna "rust" atau "cinnamon" dengan warna kelabu asap di belakang dan kelabu di perut. Di bahagian bawah berwarna jingga. Tompok "rust" di bahagian dalam kaki belakang dan tanda seperti rama-rama di hidung dan keliling mata. Berat 8 1/2-11 lbs.

American Checkered Giant
Negara asal: Germany. Kacukan Flemish Giant . Berat >11 lbs. Warna putih dan bertanda hitam dan biru  ( di sepanjang tulang belakang , tompokan di badan , pipi, telinga berwarnas, dan keliling mata dan tanda rama-rama di hidung). Tanda-tanda menyerupai English, kecuali tiada tanda "chain". Berbadan panjang dan berbentuk baik. Berat > 11 lbs

Negara asal: USA. Kacukan antara Himalayan, Standard Chinchilla & New Zealand White. Warna putih dengan hitam, cokelat, hidung, telinga, kaki dan ekor warna biru dan ungu lembut. Mata merah. Bulu pendik dan licin. Berbadan bulat. Tenang & lemah lembut. Haiwan kesayangan yang terbaik. Berat  8-10 1/2 lbs.

Negara asal: France. Berwarna kelabu, "fawn" & perang, bulu pendik, berkilat dengan "undercoat" biru perak. Berat 4-7 lbs. Gambar menunjukkan perak kehitaman - paling popular. Haiwan kesayangan yang baik  

Negara asal: Flanders, Belgium. Haiwan domestik yang mula-mula menjadi kegilaan . Berbadan panjang, "refined", berbentuk cantik. Kaki dan telinga panjang. Warna latarbelakang  merah pekat, " tan" atau  "deep chestnut" dengan biru  "slate" blue  dan border hitam sepanjang badan dan keliling telinga. Bulu kasar. Berat 6- 9 1/2 lbs.

Argente de Creme

Argente de Champagne  
Negara asal: France. Terkecil dari baka Argente.
Deskripsi terbaik ialah "Orange Silver". Mirip de Champagne. Warna dibawah ialah terang, jingga . Bahagan atas krim putih dan berbulu panjang berwarna jingga. Berat 8-11 lbs.
Negara asal: France. Warna perak - warna bahagian bawah biru gelap & bahagian atas biru keputihan dengan hitam. Hitam pekat semasa dilahirkan; bulu puith akan keluar semasa umur  kira-kira 4 bulan. Berbadan gempal. Berat kira-kira 9-12 lbs.

Berwarna biru dan putih. Berbadan "mandolin-typed" melengkung sedikit dan meruncing di bahagian bahu.  Berat 9-12 lbs.

Negara asal: Germany. Kacukan Argente & Himalayan. Berat 6-8 1/2 lbs. Gemuk pendik. Tengkuk tak berapa nampak. Bulu hitam dan berkilat, & "matt" di perut. Mata perang gelap & kuku kaki yang gelap.