English Angora FOR SALE

RM 300/ekor

Breeding Rabbits

Definitions

• A female rabbit is called a doe. A male rabbit is called a buck.
• When referring to the parents of a rabbit, the mother is called the dam, and the father is called the sire.
• When you mate two rabbits together, this is called breeding.
• When you check to see if the doe is pregnant or when you breed her again before she is due to give birth, this is called testing.
• When you put a box in the hutch that is lined with hay, this is called nesting.
• When the doe gives birth, this is called kindling.
• The period of time between breeding and kindling is called the gestation period.
• She gives birth to a bunch of bunnies called kits. This bunch of bunnies is called a litter.
• When you take the young rabbits away from the mother, this is called weaning.

Introduction

      A small breed doe is normally ready to mate when she is 5 months old, and a buck is ready at 6 months. The medium size doe is ready to breed when she is 6 months old and the buck at 7 months. The heavy breed doe is ready at 8 months and the buck is ready at 9 months.

      It's usually a good idea to select rabbits to breed whose ancestry has evidence of good productivity and good genetics. That's where productivity records and pedigrees listing show winnings come in handy. Keep productivity and show records of your herd just for this purpose.

      You may keep a ratio of one buck to 10 does if you wish. The buck may be bred up to 7 times a week effectively. Sometimes, you can use the buck twice in one day. The most I use a buck is twice a week.

      Keep the following principles in mind when you want to breed your rabbits:

• Only mate rabbits of the same breed. See Rabbit Raising - The Basics. Exceptions to this include breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation. You cannot sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood in its background going back 4 generations.
• Do not keep more than one rabbit in each cage when the rabbit is 3 months or older. Rabbits mature faster when alone, do not fight, and do not breed, thus eliminating unexpected results.
• Before breeding, check the bottom of the cage of both the doe and buck for evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Do not breed the rabbit having this condition until it has been adequately treated. Also check the genitals of both rabbits for any signs of disease or infection (for example, extreme redness, discharge, sores or scabbiness). Refer to the ARBA Official Guidebook section on diseases.
• When ready to breed the doe, take it to the buck's cage. Never bring the buck to the doe's cage. The reason for this is that the buck has less tendency to breed in the doe's cage. He's too busy sniffing around the cage.
• Some leave the doe with the buck overnight. Others put the doe in, watch it, and when they have mated, remove the doe. If you do the latter, put the doe back in with the buck 1 to 12 hours after the initial breeding. This will increase the likelihood of pregnancy and may increase the number of offspring.
• Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. You should test her for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. There are two ways to do this. The overall preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. The other method is not only more risky but also more inaccurate. This method is to mate the doe with the buck again. This can cause problems because the doe has two uterine horns, each of which can carry babies. It is possible for one horn to be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uteri to not form right, causing her to pass blobs instead of babies at the date of kindling. There is also a chance these "mummified" blobs could cause complications leading to the death of the doe.
• You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter.

Who Can Be Bred To Whom?

     Never breed brothers to sisters. Other combinations are fine: father-to-daughter, mother-to-son, cousins, etc. Until you gain some knowledge as to how genetics works with inbreeding, I would recommend your not breeding closely related pairs.

     As mentioned before, mate the same breeds together unless you are trying to get meat rabbits with certain characteristics or you are doing genetic experiments or you don't care about the fate of the offspring. You cannot sell the offspring as pedigree if their ancestry is not of the same breed going back four generations.

     You may mate rabbits of the same breed having different colors. Keep in mind, though, that there are many combinations of possibilities when mixing colors. Some of the offspring may have colors that are not recognized by ARBA. It is usually best to mate rabbits having the same color to start off with until you know more about how the colors interact. See the section on genetics for more information on colors. Also, join the national specialty group for the breed you are interested in raising. They usually have literature on how to develop the best color, size, and shape of your rabbit.

     Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects such as tooth malocclusion (wolf teeth) or moon eye (cloudy cornea), or produces offspring whose skull does not come together (except in dwarfs, where approximately 25% are born too small with deformed head or legs - the offspring are called peanuts). Determine whether the sire or dam is responsible for passing the genetic defect and eliminate it for breeding purposes.

     Strive to meet the perfect standard for the breed you are mating. Order the ARBA Standard of Perfection Booklet to know exactly what is expected of the breed. Also, join the national association for that breed to get their manual on the breed. Check out the ARBA web page for a list of associations. This will show you how to improve your herd.

Evaluating A Rabbit's Reproductive Life

       A rabbit may normally start breeding at the age of 6 months for the small to medium size breeds and 8 to 9 months for the heavy breeds. The gestation period (time between breeding and kindling) is 31 days. After the doe has kindled, I normally re-breed her at 6 weeks and wean the litter at 5-7 weeks. This cycle continues until she is about 4 years old or until her production is unsatisfactory.

       I review the herd records every quarter to determine which rabbits are not producing up to par and eliminate them. In October through December, some rabbits go into what is called moulting. At this period, many do not conceive. If you have lights on all the time in your rabbitry, this will help. Rabbits are like chickens that lay eggs only if there is enough light. Raising most of my rabbits outside, I take this problem into consideration when evaluating them. Also, if it gets too hot in the summer, especially for those who live in the Southern U.S., the buck produces less viable sperm and the conception rate goes down. Some people keep their bucks air conditioned to keep the conception rate high.

       My minimum standard for a doe is that she produce at least the following number of rabbits per year all the way to weaning:

• Dwarfs: 8
• Small Breeds: 14
• Medium Breeds: 16
• Meat Type: 20
• Giants: 16

Year of The Rabbit

People born in the Year of the Rabbit are articulate, talented, and ambitious. They are virtuous, reserved, and have excellent taste. Rabbit people are admired, trusted, and are often financially lucky. They are fond of gossip but are tactful and generally kind. Rabbit people seldom lose their temper. They are clever at business and being conscientious, never back out of a contract. They would make good gamblers for they have the uncanny gift of choosing the right thing. However, they seldom gamble, as they are conservative and wise. They are most compatible with those born in the years of the Sheep, Pig, and Dog..

Rabbit Diet

Arnab boleh pilih ketika datang untuk makan, tetapi penting untuk memberi mereka makan makanan arnab direka khusus untuk mereka. Memberikan mereka makanan yang direka untuk orang-orang boleh menyebabkan perut masalah, dan dalam kes yang melampau, kematian. Dikatakan bahawa arnab akan memakan apa saja yang anda berikan kepada mereka, tetapi itu tidak bermakna bahawa mereka harus makan apa diletakkan di depan mereka. Kebanyakan arnab akan cuba sesuatu, dan kemudian menemukan sendiri bahawa itu adalah buruk bagi mereka. Seorang pemilik yang baik tidak akan percubaan pada arnab mereka, melainkan mereka akan mengetahui terlebih dahulu apa diet arnab yang baik dan memberikan mereka makanan untuk haiwan kesayangan mereka.

Diet Arnab

• Jangan membeli makanan lebih kering dari haiwan kesayangan anda akan makan dalam 12 minggu. Jaga makanan dalam bekas kedap udara untuk tetap segar dan selera.
• Arnab lebih suka pelet timothy, walaupun mereka akan makan pelet alfalfa. Anda dapat mencari pelet timothy dijual secara berasingan di banyak kedai makanan haiwan.
• Apakah timothy hay, oat jerami atau rumput lain (semanggi, Trefoil) yang terdapat di setiap saat untuk arnab anda. Anda boleh membeli ini dari seorang petani tempatan atau dalam beg kecil yang dijual di kedai-kedai haiwan peliharaan.
• 2 cawan sayur-sayuran segar pada hari.
• 2 sudu buah pada hari.

Sayuran Untuk Arnab

Arnab cinta sayuran segar, tetapi beberapa lebih dari yang lain. Sayuran umumnya ditemui di diet arnab meliputi :

• Basil
• Beet greens
• Bok choy
• Boston lettuce
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Carrots
• Carrot tops
• Collard greens
• Celery
• Cilantro
• Clover
• Collard greens
• Dandelion greens and flowers
• Endive
• Escarole
• Green peppers
• Kale
• Mint and peppermint leaves
• Mustard greens
• Parsley
• Sweet snap pea pods
• Radicchio
• Radish tops
• Raspberry leaves
• Romaine lettuce
• Spinach
• Sprouts - alfalfa, clover, radish (no bean!)
• Wheat grass

Elakkan kacang-kacangan, Rhubarb dan Burdock daun (umum luar bilik ditemui di kawasan luar bandar) kerana mereka boleh menyebabkan gangguan pencernaan. Cuci daun dan sayuran untuk menghilangkan racun perosak jika perlu.

Buah Untuk Arnab

Buah harus diberikan untuk arnab anda sebagai hadiah, bukan sebagai bahagian utama dari pola makan arnab, jika tidak, anda mungkin berakhir dengan kelinci arnab.Buah-buahan yang kelinci anda dapat menikmati meliputi :

• Craisins
• Raisins
• Bananas
• Cored apples (seeds are toxic)
• Blueberries
• Seedless grapes
• Melon 
• Peeled oranges, remove seeds if necessary 
• Papayas, remove pit
• Peaches, remove pit 
• Pears
• Peeled pineapple
• Plums, remove pit
• Raspberries 
• Strawberries

Rabbit Diet Do's and Don'ts

1. Never feed your rabbit chocolate.
2. Avoid feeding your rabbit processed, frozen, or canned foods unless prescribed by a vet.

Amaran !!!!
Jika arnab anda berhenti makan atau minum, dan ini berlangsung selama lebih dari 6 jam, sesuatu yang mungkin akan serius salah. Carilah nasihat dari doktor haiwan.Arnab dengan obstruksi usus bisa mati dalam hitungan jam jika tidak dirawat...

Hay untuk Arnab anda.

HAY

Anda mungkin pernah membaca di banyak tempat bahawa sangat penting bahawa arnab mendapatkan banyak jerami, tetapi adakah anda tahu bahawa tidak semua jenis jerami adalah sama? Jenis pakan jerami anda, arnab anda akan mempunyai kesan besar pada kesehatan , kerana beberapa jerami lebih berkhasiat daripada yang lain, dan beberapa jenis jerami mengandungi bahan-bahan yang boleh membuat arnab anda lemak dan sakit jika mereka makan terlalu banyak.

Mari kita belajar tentang pelbagai jenis rumput kering sehingga arnab anda dapat menjadi arnab sihat dapat!

Ada dua jenis utama jerami, Rumput Hay, dan Leguminosa Hay, Rumput jerami adalah jenis terbaik daripada jerami untuk arnab anda kerana mengandungi banyak nutrisi, tetapi tidak banyak tenaga. Bunnies boleh mendapatkan lemak yang sangat mudah, dan lemak arnab arnab sakit, sehingga pemilik perlu memastikan bahawa arnab tidak mendapat 'makanan buruk' terlalu banyak dalam diet mereka. Yang lucu adalah 'makanan buruk' yang untuk arnab sebenarnya cukup sihat bagi manusia, sehingga sangat mudah untuk berfikir bahawa anda memberi makanan kelinci yang baik padahal sebenarnya anda memberikan sama arnab dari makan McDonald's.

makanan arnab Buruk merangkumi hal-hal seperti biji-bijian, buah-buahan kering, gandum, bijirin, roti, dan biji-bijian. Ada begitu banyak hal baik untuk memberi makan arnab bahawa Anda tidak perlu merasa perlu untuk memberinya makan hal-hal ini, dan anda harus berhati-hati jika anda makan pelet kelinci untuk membeli pelet yang tidak mengandungi bahan ini. Tetapi pada dengan jerami!

Rumput jerami termasuk jerami seperti Timothy Hay, Hay Meadow, dan Bermuda Rumput. Timothy hay biasanya cukup mudah dibeli di Amerika Syarikat, tapi pastikan anda mencari pembekal yang baik yang menjual anda segar, jerami bersih.

Legum Hays termasuk jerami alfalfa, jerami semanggi, buncis, kacang polong, dan kacang tanah. kelinci anda akan menemui yummy super jerami, tetapi mereka tidak sangat baik untuk itu kerana ia mengandungi begitu banyak tenaga. Arnab rumah rata-rata tidak akan dapat membakar seluruh tenaga yang mereka dapatkan dari jerami, dan mereka akan menjadi sangat gemuk memang.

Jika anda boleh, pastikan bahawa arnab anda mempunyai akses kepada semua jerami rumput yang ingin makan. hay rumput Makan tidak hanya baik untuk kesihatan fizikal arnab, itu juga membantu kesihatan mental arnab dengan memberikan sesuatu untuk dilakukan. Mengunyah sangat menenangkan untuk arnab, dan arnab yang paling cinta tidak lebih dari untuk duduk dan mengunyah jauh di jerami mereka. Hal ini mengunyah juga membantu canai gigi mereka, yang terus tumbuh dan berkembang, dan boleh menyakitkan lama jika tidak tanah turun banyak mengunyah.